Executed with militant efficiency, Asger Juel Larson’s AW12 collection combined raw masculinity with a nonchalant effeminate twist.
‘Lucid Disorder’ held on Wednesday 22 February 2012 reinvented the classic male suit with textured materials, two toned jacket and bottom combinations (both harem pants and thick-pleated skirts) and an attention to detail to accessories.
Almost as dark and edgy as the sumptuous surrounding of the Freemason’s Hall in Holborn, Larson’s London Fashion Week set offered predominantly statement black styles with heavy, and occasionally imperfect, fur adornment.
The emerging Danish designer’s catwalk collection suggested an experimentation of a tribal- come-trooper style – with fluffy hats, some models sporting quiver bags, double breasted jackets and others exposing their tattooed chests.
But Larsen added a modern twist with décollage detail to his jackets which were ripped to the shoulders or simply cut around the neck with no other embellishment.
In other striking designs, the models (who were styled with a frozen brow and beard) emerged wrapped in thick polo necks and Middle-Eastern head gear.
Already voted as ‘one to watch’, Larson has blurred his vision of past and future male clothing, the effect of which is vibrancy, even though his trademark style is underpinned by a gothic, lucid theme.