No, not crackers, Krakow. We’ve been to Krakow at various times of the year, and it is one of the most beautiful and fascinating East European cities, affordable (perhaps because it’s not in the Euro?) with friendly, English speaking inhabitants.
We traveled with Easyjet (trouble free) and were upgraded to fantastic 5* Hotel Stary, with superb facilities and staff. Try the sauna, pool, salt cave and gym – though the gym was not on my agenda – I know my limits.
The main square is a rectangular space surrounded by historic townhouses and churches. The center of the square is dominated by the Cloth Hall), rebuilt in 1555 in the Renaissance style, topped by a parapet decorated with carved masks, with the interior elegantly decorated for Christmas.
On one side of the Cloth Hall is the Town Hall Tower, on the other the 10th century Church of St. Adalbert and 1898 Adam Mickiewicz Monument. Rising above the square are the Gothic towers of St. Mary’s Basilica. On the hour I gather a member of the fire service trumpets the hour. Sure enough we could see the glint of the instrument.
Yes, glint, because the weather was spring-like.
We took a free walking tour with Good Cracow Tours: www.goodcracowtours.eu (you merely tip at the end). Our guide was Eugene, formerly a lawyer and hip-hop dancer (yes really) from the Ukraine. He is knowledgeable, funny and friendly. We learned a great deal and had fun.
Around the square are many restaurants which are warm whatever the weather (there are heaters) and you can sit there and watch the world go by, as well as the horse drawn carriages.
Choose to eat within the glass-enclosed pavements areas or down one of the side streets. You must try our favourite dish, soup in a bread bowl. You can eat the lid, and indeed, pull off parts of the sides. Delicious. Don’t forget hot chocolate. I swear it is just melted chocolate. Not a calorie amongst it.
Other places to visit are the Bishop’s Palace in Kraków which is the seat of the Krakow metropolitan Curia, and the traditional residence of Krakow bishops since the late 14th century.
Between 1958 and 1978 the palace was a residence of Cardinal Karol Wojtyła, who in October 1978 became the first Slavic Pope in history, adopting the name John Paul II.
At Christmas the square is alive with the Christmas Market, buskers, and events.
The bars and clubs are open into the early hours of the morning to the relief of our son.
On a more sombre note, visitors should visit the old Jewish Quarter (Kazimierz District) from which thousands of Jews which the Nazis were savagely herded to the Ghetto to the north of the district. There is now a memorial in the form of oversized bronze chairs on the Plac Bohaterow Getta, very near to square. This square is very close to Schindler’s Factory which now houses an excellent museum covering not just the Nazis occupation, but the Soviet one too.
It was from this ghetto that the Jews were transported to death camps, including the nearby Auschwitz. We took a walking tour around Kazimierz though not with Good Crakow Tours because we needed a morning tour, but left it early on because of the flippant attitude of the guide. She showed a total lack of respect for the suffering of the Jews, and their dispersal (see the film Schindler’s List).
We continued on our own, strolling along ancient narrow streets, visiting the Old Synagogue which is now a museum: thought provoking and unforgettable. It is an extraordinary experience to walk these streets which have seen so much, and which is regenerating as a thriving arts and residential area. It is good to see that there is a Jewish presence, albeit it understandably small.
Take lunch in the old market square and have a look at the small enclosed area with the menorah railings.
And what about the Restaurant Szara Kazimierz – excellent food and lovely friendly service. But this is the case at all the Krakow restaurants and cafes.
Frost totally recommends Krakow. A wonderful Christmas destination, in fact, a great all year round destination, and don’t forget to seek out Eugene or any of the other Good Crakow Tour guides – just look for the green umbrellas in front of St Mary’s and say hello from Frost Magazine.