My friend Roy at the Wongkei, which has been frequenting since 1979
I was having a chat with my friend Roy, when I mentioned that I’d never actually been to Wong Kei Chinese restaurant. He was astounded. After all, Wong Kei is hugely famous. It serves incredibly cheap food, but has a reputation for having rude waiters and for not accepting any kind of credit cards – cash only! It is in the lower end of Wardour Street, in the heart of London’s China Town and seems to have existed forever.
It has entered London folklore. Many people will tell stories of having arguments with the waiters there. And I remember at one poetry performance, a woman reading a poem about the drunks who used to come to Wong Kei late at night.
Because it is such an institution, I suggested that Roy and I should go there for lunch. Roy is a regular at the restaurant – he first visited in 1979 – and he says it has hardly changed in all that time. When we visited it was mid-day and at that time of day the restaurant seems to operate as a sort of cheap canteen for the local Chinese community.
It is absolutely basic in its décor. Lines of Formica tables, sturdy restaurant chairs, no table cloths and a pot of chilli sauce on every table. As soon as we arrived someone brought a pot of tea – which is free.
Roy admits to being a creature of habit and generally has beef with fried noodles. I had roast duck with soup noodles, which is my favourite Chinese lunch.
The food arrived fairly promptly and it was very pleasant. I felt that the duck was slightly overcooked and I’ve had better noodles- these lacked the sort of bite that I enjoy. The broth was rich and tasty and there was plenty of chilli sauce to spice things up.
Wong Kei at lunchtime – serving seriously cheap Chinese food
Likewise Roy’s beef was perfectly nice. I found it a bit blander than I’m used to.. Again the noodles weren’t as crisply as I’d have liked. But the point of the restaurant comes when you ask for the bill. The price for two meals was £10.50. In the West End of London, it’s probably the cheapest meal you can find.
It is busy, it is bustling, the waiters put food on the table and take it away. The food isn’t top class, but it is ridiculously cheap. It’s not a place for a romantic meal, but as an alternative to a lunchtime sandwich it makes a nice change.