By Alex Bannard, Thailand correspondent.

 

A good friend recommended doing the elephants in Chang Rai…at the Anatalaya. So off the Bannard family went.

After breakfasting watching the mist on the surrounding mountains clear, we spent our first full day there out on a bike ride around Chang Rai. Our guide took us around the surrounding countryside, showing us water lilies which apparently taste ‘a bit softer and not very like morning glory’, so I’m guessing not that good, then. We saw fields of rice paddies and pineapples and forests of rubber trees with the bark pulled down to encourage the latex to drop into containers tied into the trunk.

Then we went to the white temple, Wat Rong Khun, which was designed by Chalermchai Kositpipat, a famous Thai artist. It is spectacular and so different to any temple I have seen yet. Quite macabreand yet strangely entertaining there are skulls hanging from trees, a moat of hands reaching up from’hell’ in as a bridge escorts you over them away from temptation towards redemption in the safe confines of the temple.

 

 

We also wrote out wishes on silver leaves to be hung from a nearby tree. The kids love doing things like this and diligently scrolled their wishes based upon a loving kindness meditation I’ve been teaching them.

We cycled further to a natural cave full of bats and Buddhas, a total of 28km expertly completed by my little Tour de Chang Rai-ers. I loved the ride. Next stop the elephant ride. Whilst I am delighted these magnificent creatures have a way to earn money for their mahoots without begging on the streets, I am all too painfully aware of the ethical implications. Elephant’s spines are not designed or strong enough to carry heavy loads of tourists and these beautiful creatures are often subjected to barbaric training and living conditions.

It is extremely distressing to see them chained to a post but a good life lesson for the kids none the less and prompted discussions regarding animal welfare. The children enjoyed feeding them baby bananas, especially to one elephant who ‘squealed’ her delighted and a gentle more please.

 

Obviously the day ended with the ubiquitous ride down the river in a long tail boat. It was a great start to the trip and we were rewarded with well-deserved beers on our return to the hotel. I absolutely recommend the bike tour as a way to see Chang Rai. Elephant experiences at your discretion.

 

The following day, started in the mist and rain at the tea plantation. Acres of rolling hills and green, green leaves. The smell of tea wafted from the ‘wilting room’ where millions of leaves are left to dry out.

 

Onto Doi Tong for a tour of the King Mother’s chalet in the mountains. A wonderful take on the blending of Swiss and Thai architecture as we toured this humble abode and heard tales of how well regarded she was as she restored Doi Tong and the surrounding area from a barren opium wasteland capable only of supporting drug trafficking, into the lush landscape which now supports local agriculturists, horticulturists and their families.

 

On our final day we decided to visit the Black House, Baandam a museum celebrating the work of local artist Thawan Duchanee. This unusual collection of dark teak wood houses in a village on the out skirts of Chang Rai is as fascinating as it is weird. Lots of houses full of skeletons, crocodile and snake skins, various furs, furniture made from buffalo horns and the occasional onion shaped concrete monstrosity filled with circles of giant shells. Utterly fascinating and completely bonkers.

 

The trip drew to a close with a visit to Wat Phra Kaeo, where in 1434 a bolt of lightening cracked the old Chedi to reveal the original Emerald Buddha which now resides in a temple in grounds of the Grand Palace in Bangkok after touring a variety of cities in the north of Thailand and southern Laos. A fake emerald Buddha rests in this Wat, well it is Thailand: fake or original it’s all the same, or as they say guaranteed original fake. A local monk thought my son in his orange t-shirt had his eyes on a stint in the monastery and I relished the buzz and sense of community in this very real temple, as novice monks gathered in small groups and the real deal got on with all things divine.

So luxurious elephant experiences or not, Chang Rai is worth a trip, the scenery alone is stunning but the randomness of unusual temples, the lushness of the tea plantations and some unexpected attractions is so alluring too.