Bucket: 107 Westbourne Grove, Bayswater, London. W2 4UW

You would expect a restaurant featuring fish to be be able to excel at cooking fish and spoiler alert, Bucket Restaurant does so exceptionally well, but the sheer breadth of the menu at Buckets posed quite a problem when coming to write this review.

However, when faced with such a conundrum I like to concentrate on the small things, the things that are so often overlooked and for this I have devised a series of tests. Entering Bucket on a cold wet November evening is a welcomingly surreal experience. Greeted warmly by staff the restaurant has a beach bar theme, which works well with tables arranged to accommodate 4 people so that you are aware of others but not to the point of overhearing their conversation. Longer tables accommodate bigger parties of diners.

Each table has a sprig of Rosemary placed on each napkin, whilst a whole lemon sits on a small board waiting to be cut in half and spritzed over the fish.  Copper cutlery and night lights seated in glass jars filled with fine gravel. Everything subtly suggests a fish bar on a Mediterranean beach. Due to a problem with the trains my friend was 30 minutes late, but I was assured that this was no problem. I ordered a gin and tonic whilst I waited and it arrived in a glass filled with ice with the tonic served separately. Test 1 passed with flying colours.

 

I must have looked hungry (or perhaps I was looking hungrily at the food being enjoyed by the other diners) as Nara, our Columbian waitress asked if I would like some bread and butter. Warm tasty Sourdough bread duly arrived with a smear of the most perfectly salted butter that I think I have ever tasted. Tests 2 Hospitality and Test 3 Bread and butter both passed with distinction.

The problem with a restaurant that specialises in one thing, in this case, sustainable fish, is that it precludes groups that may include vegetarians. Bucket offers several vegetarian options but if they were concentrating on fish just how good was this likely to be? Time to set another test. My starter of Artichoke Hummus (£7.25) was something that I had never heard of or indeed conceived of and it was a revelation. This was no sop to vegetarians; this was a homage to the artichoke where artichoke crisps contrasted with the unctuous hummus and the flavour brought out by the Dukkha. The Malden Oysters (£4.00 each) served ice cold with a tangy accompaniment of red wine and shallot sauce were fresh and as salty as you would expect and so loudly proclaimed as being so completely delicious, that people at the next table would have been well within their rights to complain about the noise.

Chalk Stream Trout Tartare

A plate of Chalk Stream Trout Tartare (£10.25) with pickled apple, Kohl Rabi, Cucumber and Dill followed and was so fresh tasting with all the flavours so finely balanced and complimenting each other.

The wine list is varied and wines have been carefully selected to bring out the best of the fish. We chose a bottle of Castano Macabeo 2018 (£26.00), a light and fruity organic white wine, which went perfectly with our food but didn’t break the bank. The wine list features wines ranging from £23.00 up to £90.00 the latter for those special occasions or when you wish to treat yourself.A good test of a wine list is when the cheaper wines taste good rather than adequate and the Castano certainly did that.  Nara, could not have been more helpful knowing exactly when to clear plates, so as not to interrupt the flow of conversation, whilst being friendly and efficient. A gift not given to all, but one that makes such a difference to a meal.

 

Goan Sea Bass with an onion Bhaji

Our mains consisted of Goan Sea Bass from the “Specials” menu that is changed according to what is fresh on the day, Served with an onion bhaji and a myriad of fresh herbs and spices.  We declared this truly delicious, mouth tingling but not overpowering. No clinging sauces but perfectly pan cooked whole fish where the white, tender meat was accompanied by a delightful combination of chillies and spices making the dish absolutely perfect.

Meditteranean Mezze

As the vegetarian starter may just have been a flash in the pan (all puns intended) we also went for the seasonal vegetable Mezze which was so generous that it could easily have been shared by three or four people. Aubergine, Baby Sweet Corn, Halloumi Cheese and Peppers, simply griddled (think beach barbeque) and served with a punchy green sauce consisting of herbs including mint and dill in a thin olive oil adding piquancy. Sometimes, simplicity is all that is called for if the ingredients are allowed to speak for themselves and a good Chef understands this. Mack Barnstable is such a chef.

The Mezze includes two side plates and I was persuaded by my companion to have the Fries (£4.50 when not served with the Mezze) these were good, but given everything else on the menu I should not have listened to her.Where I did score highly was the creamy Polenta (£4.50 when not served with the Mezze), which was light and incredibly delicious and all I will say, is that this will make you forget every other Polenta that you have ever eaten. I could have had nothing but this for a starter and a main and considered myself well fed. By now my friend and I were professing ourselves full. ‘Just coffee,’ we said to each other, and then the pudding menu arrived with desserts range from £4.50 to £9.00.

Don Pedro

We agreed to share the Don Pedro (£9, 00), which is a super light, Whisky and whipped Vanilla Ice Cream scattered with Pecan nuts lending this desert an almost Zabaglione consistency with a contrasting crunch.We were no longer surprised that this was a finely judged dessert, well balanced earthy whisky flavours and yet so light.The whole menu is designed to be shared, but with food so finely cooked it is hard to watch your friends digging into a dish that you have selected or perhaps that is just me? We couldn’t help but notice several lone diners who presumably lived in the neighbourhood and who felt comfortable enough to drop in and enjoy a meal. This has to be due to the ethos created at Bucket by Mack Barnstable, the new Head Chef who has created the new Autumn menu.

Mack works closely with his fish suppliers to deliver interesting blackboard specials and guest oysters on a daily-changing basis. Little surprise then that Mack Barnstable grew up near the South West Coast and has an affinity with fish, formed when he was pulling in Mackerel off the Cob in Lyme Regis and working on an Oyster Farm in Australia.  It is possible to eat well and relatively cheaply at Bucket, but with food this tasty why would you?

If I lived in the area, I would go to Buckets simply for the bread and butter, oh and the Artichoke Hummus, the Polenta and the Chalk Stream Trout Tartare.  Actually, if I lived in the area, I would simply take up residence.

View the full menu @ https://static1.squarespace.com/static/5ae32324a2772cce555e6fac/t/5d9

336d9fb48423f80f6a2f9/1569928923122/bucket_website_menus_oct19.pdf

Bucket is located at 107 Westbourne Grove, Notting Hill, London, W2 4UW

www.bucketrestaurant.com   Instagram: @bucketlondon  Facebook: bucketlondon