I make no apology for writing more than usual on a fascinating subject: a transport system which delivered people and mail in the 1700s from Edinburgh to London along the Great North Road, via Thirsk. In Thirsk they would perhaps stay overnight, or at least chomp away at something nice, and, of course, change the horses. The majority of these coach horses were stabled overnight at The Golden Fleece, (stabling for 50 to 60) then known as The Fleece, but sadly it was a time when there were NO maltesers to go with coffee, which was more a sort of Turkish coffee back then. Horses were also changed at The Three Tuns, and passengers refreshed (now a Weatherstones pub), though not in such numbers.
But why am I writing about this historic subject? One Sunday morning recently, a coach clip-clopped over the cobbles to stop outside The Golden Fleece – yes, it did, really. We were walking the dogs. Talk about gawping. Soon a crowd grew as the passengers and hornblower quaffed fizz. Such excitement, and of course I chatted to John Moorhouse hoping to hear, why, how, what?
John is based in Stockton and runs a commercial carriage business supplying horses for funerals, weddings, proms and film and tv, including Peaky Blinders, Downton abbey, Lloyds bank commercial, many period dramas including Jamaica Inn, Death Comes to Pemberly, Victoria, Emily, and many more. A carriage even appeared in music videos for Stormzy and others and Live Arena Tour Shows for Jack Whitehall. Ah, and let’s not forget that a few weeks ago they supplied a carriage for a funeral.
So, as another sip of fizz was taken, it was revealed that John is part of a group of enthusiasts who hail from all over the UK and are involved with many coaching events throughout the season including Royal Ascot. This particular trip, though, was an informal end of season jaunt over 3 days from Croft Spa to Harrogate, staying at old coaching inns along the way.
Two teams of horses were used, the first being John’s own team of black Dutch Gelderlanders which I read have a stylish gait, and the other team, grey Hungarian Lippizaners which belong to John’s friend Chris Rawlings from the Newcastle area. I have seen Lippizaners perform at the Spanish Riding School in Vienna – amazing. As for the magnificent coach, (it is truly such, I had a good look) it is a modern reproduction of a Whitlock coach ‘The Regulator’ which ran a route from London to Bedford, and belongs to Chris Rawlings.
As well as seating for a few within the coach, there was space for more on top. It might seem the inside seats would be the most popular, with perhaps a few elbows being brought into play to bagsy a seat, it transpired that in the summer it could become too warm and stuffy.
The coachmen for the weekend’s run were split between Chris, John, Keith Hodgson and Colin Varle. The guard and hornblower was Martin Horler. All were very much dressed for the part. Honestly, it was just a magical experience for the onlooker, but imagine if you were one of the guests on this journey …
So what did the guests experience? They stayed on Friday night at Croft Spa and Saturday morning they set off about 10 am and drove the black horses 14 miles to The Golden Lion at Northallerton for a lunch stop, then a further 10 miles to The Golden Fleece at Thirsk to stay overnight. Oh, I wish I’d known, I could have slipped into the bar as Saturday evening wore on, to imbibe and chat.
Come Sunday morning, the greys were harnessed, coach sorted, and lo and behold they appeared in front of the hotel.
After the Sunday gawp – the travellers left Thirsk to drive 12 miles to The Commercial Hotel Easingwold for lunch, then 15 miles on to York Minster to stay the night in York. Oh, what an eyeful for the people of Easingwold and York, but thankfully not a highwayman ‘Stand and Deliver’ in sight. On Monday morning the group journeyed on for 22 miles to Harrogate, splitting the journey and with both teams of horses arriving at The Old Swan in Harrogate mid afternoon. Heavens, what an adventure.
John and the group are intending to offer a similar service to clients next summer with their own world famous ‘Defiance’ road coach that previously ran the London to Brighton road. Interested clients are welcome to get in touch.
Oh, if you do, let Frost Magazine know what you think. Please, please.
