A rare day out with Mr P by Alex Bannard Bangkok Correspondent

Posted on June 30, 2016 by Catherine Balavage

With the children at school Alex and her husband have a chance to go tourist.

Mr P is on gardening leave. Which since we, the kids and I, have not even been here a year is a little alarming but we have been through worse so we’ll get through this. So before his new job takes him off again and in the spirit of making the best of things, we decided to explore beyond Bangkok. After all two month’s in one another’s company is a long time, so better we do these things before we are fed up with one another.

I had always wanted to go to Ayutthaya – the second of the two original ancient capitals of Siam and heralded as the Angkor Wat of Thailand. Thankfully Mr P agreed. We dropped the kids off at school and headed out of the city, noses in our iPhones clearing emails, returning messages and playing Candy Crush. Ok Candy Crush, that was just me. I like to make use of the exquisite privilege of being driven everywhere by using my time wisely. Gawd forbid we might strike up a convo and run out of things to chat about by mid morning.

We arrived at the Unesco World Heritage site early before the mini vans and tourist coaches but failed to secure the bikes we had dreamt of. Never mind. The site didn’t look that big and there’s nothing wrong with our legs. So off we set. Within minutes we had come across the famed Buddha in the tree roots. ‘Great,’ announces Mr P, ‘We can go home now.’ He’s not the best tourist. Sightseeing is not his bag. He once described Petra as ‘cr*p’. It was shaping up to be a long day and it was barely 9:15.

I want to say ‘and it did not disappoint’, except it did a little. Wat Maha That is stunning without question. And one can not help to marvel at the skill of the ancients who built the complex but it somehow just did not have the majesty and splendor of Angkor.

We wandered through the historical gardens and over the road to other ruined temples and buildings which were not open. I pondered on the irony of some of these ancient ruins amidst modern day Ayutthaya as many of them are. Again something different from Angkor – or it certainly was more than a decade ago when I visited it. In Angkor you feel like you have stumbled across something magical, in Ayutthaya it feels like the ruins are struggling to compete with the pace of modern living. Although I had to smile at all the bike helmets left on the wall of one ruin as chickens clucked in nearby pens and the drivers swung in hammocks hung between the trees.

We crossed the road briefly stumbling across the paths of elephants carrying a hoard of Chinese tourists around the periphery of the gardens. The mahouts did not take kindly to Mr P patting the elephant’s trunks, oblivious to this being our first ‘official’ elephant experience so far on our Thailand adventure. I suspect these are not the ethical elephants we dream about introducing the kids to at some point.

We discovered a modern temple where a recently renovated Buddha resides, one of the largest in Thailand and one the Queen herself has helped restore to its former glory. In the gardens surrounding the temple the bushes were shaped like elephants – probably more ethical to be honest than those up the road. The Ancient Palace and Wat Phra Si Samphet nearby were more impressive. A little off the beaten track, they had more charm somehow.

By now it was time for lunch and we settled on a quaint restaurant over looking the river where we both inhaled a Singha and enjoyed a delicious meal.

Afterwards we drove out to Wat Chaiwatthanaram over the river. I loved this set of ruins. Here there was a majesty and splendor as we explored the cloisters and the decapitated Buddhas that surround it. It was here that I took a quiet moment of solitude in front of the huge restored Buddhas that overlook the river surrounding this island of ancient temples, monasteries, palaces and statues destroyed by the Burmese in 1757. And here that I realized that none of it disappointed. I had arrived with expectations and they had disappointed. The temples and palaces, statues and stupas were all splendid and don’t deserve to be compared to Angkor which I fear in the intervening years since my first visit has possibly lost some of it’s magic as chain hotels creep into its being.

And I remembered why I love Thailand. I love places that are not completely touristy (it was midweek and still blissfully quiet) and still retain a rustic charm. I love that real life juxtaposes right next to stunning temples and glorious ruins, that everyday people, often on the brink of extreme poverty, live right next door to these fabulous and stunning spiritual reminders. I hope they find it as spiritually uplifting as I do.

Looking at the map of Ayutthaya I realized we barely scratched the surface of all the ruins. But I did the same in Angkor. Once can get a little templed out. It doesn’t mean the memories aren’t vivid and wonderful. And I have no doubt our memories of this day will be the same because in the end it did not disappoint. And we didn’t run out of conversation either.

Glamping near Hellfire Pass by Alex Bannard: our Thailand Correspondent

Posted on June 14, 2016 by Margaret Graham

One of the hottest summers in Thailand has just drawn to a close and as the rainy season dawned, Alex Bannard and her family joined friends glamping near Hellfire Pass.

It was to be a compensation prize after Alex’s husband’s ‘blokes’ fishing weekend seemed to hook only appalling seasickness, and no fish. As Alex says: thinking we were going to Khao Yai I was vaguely surprised to learn we were actually going to be based in a campsite north of Kanchanburi near Hellfire Pass. The kids were excited at the prospect of going glamping, if not at little confused by the prospect of glamourous camping.

We left early and made the journey across Bangkok in around 20 mins. Amazing how easy it is to navigate the city when there is no traffic. And it afforded us an unplanned stop off at Kanchanburi to see a train cross the bridge over the River Kwae and pop into a friend’s newly opened waterpark. The park was fun. My 8 year old was so brave tackling the steepest slide and as we embarked on the last leg of the journey to Hintock Camp site we were refreshed.

As we approached the campsite we drove through the nearby village where villagers were dancing along the road celebrating the nuns who were leaving for their spiritual journey at a nearby temple. The celebrations lasted until late into the evening and kicked off again at 4am as they finally left for their new life.

The campsite did not disappoint: the tent’s were raised off the ground on stilts, had their own outdoor bathrooms, proper beds, even A/C. This is how camping should be – glamping. The kids ran around the campsite whilst the grown ups enjoyed a celebratory G&T or several. Then the heavens opened and the evening BBQ buffet around the campfire was relocated to the restaurant over looking the river. Although there was not much sleep to be had thanks to the nuns’ farewell in the village next door.

The next day we had a blissfully relaxing day at the campsite, whose tropical gardens were the perfect back drop to games of cricket and lazy coffees. Just before lunch attempts at fishing commenced. Mr P aced it catching 2 fish almost immediately. The mums took the children to the fresh spring pool, with stunning views over the river. That afternoon after a heavenly head and shoulder massage we took the kids on a long tail boat ride down the river. And we celebrated the end of a fabulous day rain-free by the campfire.

All too soon it was time to leave but not before we wandered over a nearby suspension bridge to investigate a small temple and it’s 5 huge Buddhas which reside next to it before heading to Hellfire Pass. Walking along the path which had been carved out of the rocks by hand by British, Australian & Dutch POW’s and local’s it is not hard to imagine the ghastly inhumane conditions those men had to endure.

12,000 POW’s died subjected to brutal working and living conditions, with little food, very limited medicine and absolutely no comfort. Hellfire’s Pass is so called because the men often worked their 15-18 hour shifts in firelight, emaciated and exhausted. It certainly gave me something to reflect upon on the journey home especially one of the quotes on the memorial plaques: ‘Go home and tell them, they gave up their tomorrow’s for your today.’ And we should never forget the bravery of previous generations who fought for the democracy, safety and peace we enjoy.

Of course with children in tow we could not explore the full path and one day I will walk the full 7km pass. But for now it was enough. Besides the heavens opened, well it is rainy season after all, lightening the mood, drenching but refreshing us and hastening us towards the car and the journey back to Bangkok. But of course, we will not forget, and we will return.

Another week of back to back diverse but delightful experiences by Alex Bannard – Bangkok correspondent

Posted on May 31, 2016 by Margaret Graham

When we came to Bangkok I really thought I would achieve so much. Nine months in I realize if you achieve one thing a day you are doing well. So when I have a week of back to back opportunities in which to experience the weird and the wonderful of Bangkok, I utterly relish it.

It all started with 2 nights retreat on the river in Amphawa – home of the original authentic floating market and many a temple. It was literally sunset yoga on the river; merit-making with monks in boats at sunrise, a completely beautifully serene and peaceful way to start the day; post-merits yoga on the pontoon on the river; spa treatments including acupuncture, a needle literally inserted in my third eye, hot herbal bath, probably my first and last bath in Thailand because it was SO hot and a Thai massage.

Later, a soaking in fizz, closely followed by a drenching in river water (in my remaining clean outfit so I travelled home smelling like a Thai drain puddle) and some rather spectacular firefly demonstrations on the river bank. The trees were lit up like Christmas trees. And a finale of sunrise om floating on the river and reiki. The whole experience was complete zen.

On returning home it was a back to back birthday extravaganza…first a 5 year old’s birthday welcomed us back to our Moobaan, more fizz, more fun, no soakings. Then my birthday: kids made fabulous cards and Mr P excelled himself on the present front; brunch with my BKK-Bessie’s and another amaze-balls gift; rooftop bar drinks with Mr P and a delish Indian tandoori dinner…lots of time to reflect that getting older is really getting more fun.

The following day my friend, Meghan and I headed off to Chinatown on the hunt for fabric. Despite better and wiser advise, that the last Friday before the Thai schools went back was a bad day to go, off we set. Bts, tuk tuk & taxi with intermittent footwork and we arrived in Little India. We were scouting through the rolls of fabric before 11am in Indian Emporium – a result in itself. Made a purchase: some cool linens for 100bht/m. Next stall…linen 50bht/m…fatal school girl error. Much friendlier proprietors so to compensate I went mad on a colour palette reminiscent of the river: khaki, slate, Air Force blue, ocra…I do love colour but my skin tone suits, well pond water shades.

On Saturday one of my 4 birthday twins invited me to a Grease night to celebrate her 40th. Once I realized the Mr’s weren’t invited it was game on for me. 50’s skirts and fitted tops were sourced. A pink wig was secured. I was good to go.

What a night. Slick smooth and stylish it was not. Fun, raucous and silly it most definitely was. We laughed, sang loudly, danced hysterically and it was fabulous. Never in a million years had I even anticipated the previous, as our look see in Bangkok came to an end, that a year later my birthday week would be ending like this. And I think that unpredictability is what I love most about Bangkok. Anything is possible and anything goes.

Afterwards we went to Titanium. I was totally expecting a mega club, but instead it is a small bar with a live band. We looked rather like a hen do, all dressed same and so unfortunately attracted attention in that vein. I had to keep myself in check as there were more than a few fat ugly Farang with their trophy Thai gals, a side to Thailand that challenges my non-judgemental yoga principles and my face muscles – I am completely transparent and you can tell exactly how I am feeling by the look on my face. The all girl live band were awesome. The bonkers Ozzie and his scary ‘tash, not so much. But we danced some more, drank some more and laughed a lot more. Then I journeyed all the way home, itchy ghastly wig still in situ if not a little wonky, with possibly the jolliest taxi driver ever – a real life happy Buddha.

And that’s how life is sometimes in Bangkok. Back to back experiences, sense overload, a fun-fest. And I love it, I absolutely love that life flits between the sublime and the ridiculous so effortlessly!and so regularly.

The Golden Mount & Baan Bat by Alex Bannard | Bangkok Correspondent

Posted on May 30, 2016 by Margaret Graham

I was delighted, soon after arriving in Bangkok, to meet a fabulous and inspiring neighbour who is a practicing Buddhist. This is a philosophy I have enormous respect for and a fascinated interest in, but she was also planning on starting a meditation course which had been on my Bangkok bucket list from the start.

Being a huge fan of yoga and mindfulness I was intrigued to learn the spiritual art of real life Buddhist meditation. As our guru has the most enchanting French accent, I felt that if it all proved a bit much, her voice would be like a meditation on its own.

She suggested we visit the area where the monks’ alms bowls are made. I am a traveller at heart and have backpacked clutching my Lonely Planet many times. I was all in.

We took the water taxi for Bang Sapi pier near our Moobaan. This is an adventure in itself. For 20bht we went all the way from Bang Sapi up to the temple at the Golden Mount, Wat Saket, changing only once. I love the people watching opportunities this kind of adventure affords.

The boat was packed, yet at every stop as people disembarked, yet more people embarked. The only person wearing a lift jacket, predictably was the girl taking the money and dispensing the tickets – you must protect the assets after all. The sights of local people living their lives alongside the river were extraordinary and the smells were…well it’s Bangkok I don’t need to elaborate. I loved it.

When we got to Wat Saket as it was Loi Krathong week, there was a fun fair and collection of stalls. This happens every year and there is a wonderful carnival energy surrounding the streets. The temple sits on a small man made hill up 300 steps which circle the mount, revealing fabulous views of the city.

The Mount itself during Loi Krathong is shrouded in red cloth and is a popular pilgrimage for local people who write on the cloth. I wrote a message for a friend who badly needed better karma…I hope it worked.

After some time at the top soaking in the atmosphere and appreciating seeing the city from above, we headed off to Baan Bat. Almost all Buddhist monks have alms bowls and begin the day collecting offerings from the local community, a custom that dates back 2,500 years. Nowadays almost all the bowls are manufactured but there remains in the alleys surrounding The Golden Mount, one last soi dedicated to the ancient art of alms bowl making.

The bowls are hand made by battering steel into shape and decorating it and the community remains and functions in exactly the same place, albeit in a slightly different fashion (I did see a surprising number of tablets of the electronic variety keeping the children entertained) and in much smaller numbers.

Over the years a thriving industry has been reduced leaving just one family making the traditional bowls although the surrounding area still functions in some way to support the monks with various temple supply shops. The whole area is worth exploring and like everywhere in Thailand the people are welcoming and friendly.

Before long it was time to return to the water taxi and head home for pick up, alms bowl under arm after some nifty bargaining. I should donate it to the faithful monks but I like it too much.

Surreal? Probably, but it’s my life Alex Bannard – Bangkok correspondent

Posted on May 3, 2016 by Margaret Graham

Being an expat affords some amazing experiences, luxuries and some frustrations. In a previous expat life I had friends who described it as ‘not real life’ – it is real, it’s our life right now, surreal though it might sometimes be.

Take a typical moment in time in Bangkok. I was invited to join a friend in her first ante-natal appointment for her fourth pregnancy. Hubby felt his role was done so it was my privilege to share a wonderful moment with her and to have some fun too. Afterwards we were waiting outside for a taxi to go to lunch. I say waiting, we actually got proactive and went straight to the area where they are dropping off to pick one up.

‘We were met with, ‘No madam you go get number, please’.

There’s a system. Wow.

We went to the taxi desk & got number 49. There are many people milling around and obviously we don’t expect to get in the first taxi. Several minutes later a lady with number 52 clutched in her palm was clearly edging to the front of the ‘queue’…there is no queue just a mass of people.

I don’t really like pointless rules but if there is a system, queue or not – you wait your turn lady or I will take you down. I’m British after all, and we invented the queue.

Realizing we probably needed to register with Clipboard-lady I told her our destination & she wrote it next to 49. We’re back in the game. Number 52 can wait in line.

After many more minutes it became apparent that the system is not a system.

Clipboard-lady approached the next available taxi and gave him a range of options on which location he wanted next, which often he declined & drove off. Oh for goodness sake -it’s 37 degrees humid as a Chinese Laundry we’ve be waiting for almost 1/2 hour, my friend is in wedges and I am watching my long awaited Dean & Delucalunch disappear up the ‘system’.

So I took things into my own hands & walked down the line and asked a taxi way back in the taxi queue if he will take us to Emporium. ‘Madam, number?’ he said.

I replied, ‘We have a number but there is seriously no system. Taxi just choose where he wants to go. You want to go to Emporium?’

‘Ok but 100bht’

‘Done.’ We jumped in with our laminated 49 (stick that in your ‘system’) and drive off.

The traffic is horrible. We pass a Dean & Deluca and get stuck in a nose to tail traffic, so I hand him his 100bht & say ‘Kap kun ka we get out here.’

‘No madam. Just round corner.’ He replies.

‘Oh ok’

Finally we pull up at…Central Embassy. Not quite where we wanted to be.

Yep, surreal it is. But we love it.

My Bangkok Nature Challenge by Alex Bannard – Thailand correspondent

Posted on April 8, 2016 by Margaret Graham

Challenged by a friend on Facebook to photograph something natural and post it everyday for a week turned into a beautiful journey.

Recently I was tagged on Facebook to complete a nature challenge and I was filled with dread. We all know the feeling – one’s to do list already seems over-burdened or the challenge seems simply not possible. It’s almost like the 21st century chain-letter – if you don’t forward to 20 people within an hour your life will implode, you will grow an extra nose and you certainly won’t ever attain riches beyond your wildest dreams.

OK so I over-exaggerate a little but this photo challenge involved posting daily for a week a photograph of nature and nominating one of your friends daily to accept the same gauntlet. I balked. And procrastinated and thought ‘But I live in a city’ and dreaded burdening other friends and and and…

Well, of course I did the ostrich thing for three days and eventually ventured out with the dog for her morning walk around our Moobaan, armed with my phone. I don’t usually take my phone as I believe the walk is more mindful without it. I focus on the bird sounds (the for-real bird, the one who squawks ‘for-real-for-real’) and try to allow my thoughts to drift across my mind like clouds in the blue sky. And all of that dippy hippy stuff.

It was a revelation: I discovered beautiful flowers hanging from trees, bushes or in potted plants. I absolutely love the frangipani flower which we all regularly see on the ground in Thailand and decorating our plates but this time I noticed some that hadn’t quite opened in the morning sun’s warmth. But the frangipani wasn’t the only one, because I realised that there are many other spectacularly beautiful flowers if only one looks.

My friend’s housekeeper later told me that one bloom is collected by the locals to cook in oyster sauce, and that’s obviously what the stout old lady was doing one morning as her maid obediently following behind carrying handfuls of these flowers.

I looked more closely at the bark of the trees the dog sniffs around every day. I noticed the different textures in the different grasses at our feet. I looked upwards and discovered papayas, pomegranates and bananas hanging off neighbour’s trees.

I am sure the security and gardeners wondered what that mad Farang was doing, one foot on the dog’s lead, kneeling down with her phone trying to get the perfect shot of a dead flower on the ground. To be honest I didn’t care because I was in that all important flow state where time flies by and nothing else matters other than what you are doing. Kids are naturally in this state and it is somehow conditioned out of us as we grow up but it is so therapeutic and extremely good for you.

But best of all I was totally mindful of my surroundings, seeing things I hadn’t noticed before and appreciating once again how very lucky we are to live in this vibrant, bustling, busy city of Bangkok. You just have to open your eyes and slow down to appreciate its nature and beauty and I realised then I can never have enough of frangipani.

So thank you for the challenge, and I hope those I nominated also found it to be a time of similar revelation and calm.

And another lesson…if I had allowed my initial reaction to this challenge to dominate I would never have experienced these revelations and therein lies another revelation: don’t judge, stay curious and open because there is so much more to life if you do.

Alex has lived the nomadic life of an expat for over a decad living in the Middle East, Istanbul, Germany and recently settling with her family in Thailand. She teaches yoga in Bangkok and when not on her yoga mat, waxes lyrical about her oversea adventures. Contactable via: masteryoga@elbolivng.com

Best Chinese New Year Ever by Alex Bannard – Bangkok Correspondent

Posted on February 22, 2016 by Margaret Graham

The year of the monkey.

My first Chinese New Year (well not my first, I’m 45, there have been many) but the first I have celebrated was amazing, energizing and inspiring, spiritual and serene. Since I arrived in Bangkok I have wanted to do a cycle tour of the city. A very good friend invited me up join her and her cousin. On the day we realized our tour coincided with Chinese New Year and were a little doubtful of whether being bound for Chinatown on saddle was such a good idea. We couldn’t have been more wrong.

We arrived at the Follow Me headquarters a little late but we were welcomed warmly & joined by a Japanese girl who was in Bangkok over the weekend for work. We were dispatched to watch an amusing induction movie on cycle conduct before wobbling out of the drive and heading off.

Navigating the narrow soi’s was at times precarious especially if there was on-coming traffic either on foot or 2 wheels but we soon got the hang of it. Our first stop off was at a local Wat home of a primary school. The King, Rama 6 was educated at Oxford over 100 years ago and travelled around Europe. He saw children being educated in schools initiated the building of primary schools in the same grounds as the temples, the monks becoming the teachers. To this day many of these schools survive today. Matthew our guide, was educated in such a school.

Matthew’s Thai name is Thew meaning good view, a fitting name since he was born to be a guide and gave us a great insight and view of Bangkok, full of knowledge and very entertaining. He proceeded to tell us about his 15 days training as a monk, common in Thailand and a huge honour. He was 25, the lessons he learnt and the 15 days immersed in the spiritual life of a monk changed his life.

Next stop was the old customs house along side the river. Now derelict it is soon to be renovated into a luxury hotel. We made our way past the modern post office, the old British embassy. Then we went to the Chinese temple which was amazing.

The Doctor Buddha resides in this temple, so called because of his healing hands during his lifetime.

Locals who desire better health will pilgrimage to this temple but on Chinese New Year, the temple was buzzing, incense filled the air & tall thick red candles bought by local families, labeled with the family name burned brightly.

It was a very special moment to celebrate the dawning of the year of the monkey 2259 (2016 on the Gregorian calendar).

We cycled into Chinatown. Red lanterns adorned shop alcoves. Banners hung across the street and almost everyone was either dressed in traditional Chinese dress or red. The atmosphere was electric, carnival like. And it was barely 10am.

I needed to buy Chinese New Year costumes for the kids and myself so we could join in the celebrations at school and got very lucky with some great purchases. Then I got the kids a Chinese New Year dragon…when in Rome and all that. Talk about taking multi-tasking to the next level.

The next stop was the flower market. The flower market runs 24 hours a day. It is divided into the offerings section and the wedding section. Don’t get them confused and take flowers from the wrong section to the wrong event, it could get awkward. We saw 50 roses for 80bht approx £2 and other Valentine treats, such as roses styled out of Ferrero Rocher, a perfect Valentine’s treat for Mr P.

Then we loaded the bikes on the river taxi to go across the river to another local Wat, The Royal Temple. Not known on the tourist circuit since it nestles next door to and is overshadowed by the Arun Wat but since this is enfolded in scaffolding rendering it hugely underwhelming, Matthew took us next door.

This fabulous set of temples is usually quiet during the week but since it was Chinese New Year it was absolutely bustling. The air was again heavily incense infused, the bells ringing in our ears as the worshippers cleansed their spirits by chiming every bell.

Matthew gave us each 2 lotus flowers and showed us how to fold the lotus leaves to reveal the flower, a wonderfully therapeutic exercise, almost meditative in its essence.

Then we made an offering to the Buddha of the flowers and wound our way back to our bikes through the throng.

Back on the saddle we wove through more Soi’s glimpsing snatches of Thai life: small dark shop openings; flashes of flatscreen TV’s through part open doorways; women sitting on wooden seats watching the world go by; kids playing bare foot in the street; family members asleep on the floor and lots of greetings of ‘Sawadee ka’ and ‘Happy new year’. It was marvelous.

Every so often through the tour we would venture onto the main roads and on the way home we certainly navigated the busiest roads, 3 and 4 lanes in both directions but it was not as treacherous as I thought it would be. The smaller roads, where cars has slowed to allow us through were more so as the moped drivers whizzed through the gaps, reminding everyone who really is king of the road in Bangkok.

Back at base we were awarded an ice cream and the possibility of a foot spa in the pool of tiny hungry fishes, I declined this with my sights set on Dean and Delucca round the corner and a well deserved New York style lunch for a change, but is a great tour, a totally different way to explore and experience Bangkok with or without the added festivities of Chinese New Year.

Later that week, the kids and I headed to school adorned in our Chinese New Year outfits for a morning of welcoming in the year of the monkey. In Foundation Stage the children made lanterns, lucky money and ribbons amongst other traditional crafts. The girls cavorted with their ribbons along to videos of professionals doing the same before we headed to the Chinese New Year assembly. A wonderful celebration showcasing the best of Bangkok’s Chinese music, Kung Fu & off course the finale with the Chinese Dragons. Next year we’re planning to join the Chinese Dragon Parade and party in Chinatown.

www.followmebiketour.com/

My Bangkok Life – The Elephant Parade Words and images by Alex Bannard

Posted on February 10, 2016 by Margaret Graham

My Bangkok Life – The Elephant Parade

Words and images by Alex Bannard

Alex Bannard,Frost Magazines’ Bangkok correspondent, explored Lumpini Park to see the Elephant Parade. She found that this uplifting and colourful morning provided an insight into a worth cause.

We moved to Bangkok at the beginning of August 2015, following in the footsteps of the hubby, Mr P who had arrived at the beginning of March to start his new job. We loved it immediately: the food, the culture, the people, the weather. We’ve made some really wonderful friends, settled in & it feels like home already. Now it’s time to start exploring.

The Elephant Parade has been visiting Bangkok during December & January so we headed off to Lumpini Park keen to see it. I had suggested we take the water taxi, quicker, more fun for the kids but Mr P said the traffic would be fine on a Sunday. An hour later & much whining & pressing of each other’s & my buttons from the back seat & we finally arrived.

We put the lead on the puppy & headed off to find the parade. Only to be stopped by security, no dogs allowed in the park. Seriously? For a moment my love affair with this amazing city faltered. But being a selfless character, I handed the lead to Mr P & said, ‘Well I’m going, you can stay here with the dog.’ He went for a snooze in the a/c’d car, win win all round.

Aside from passing lots of Soi (street) dogs as we walked through the park & the sweltering heat, the parade was delightful. My daughter bumped into one of her ballet-class-cohorts & posed mercilessly by almost every elephant, having recently been taught the art my one of her friend’s mothers whilst my son was chief photographer.

The Elephant Parade is the brain-child of Marc Spits who visited The Friends of Asian Elephant Hospital in Thailand with his son, Mike & meet Mosha a baby elephant who had lost a foot at 7 months old thanks to a landmine accident. She has a new prosthetic leg fitted every year & every year has to learn to re-walk again. The Parade was set up to raise awareness & money for the plight of Asian elephants, many of which no longer have work & are forced to beg for food with their mahouts thorough the busy Thai streets.

The Parade, which started in 2006 has visited many European & Asian cities including Milan, Copenhagen, London, Amsterdam, Hong Kong, Singapore & California. It is the largest exhibition of decorated life-sized elephant statues painted by celebrities & artists including Katy Perry, Sir Richard Branson, Paul Smith, Goldie Hawn, & here in Bangkok people like Nancy Chandler who makes wonderful maps & cards of Bangkok & local actors & artists.

The elephants are auctioned afterwards to raise money – I went on line desperate to obtain my favourite Elephant but rather staggered at the average bid being around 250,000bht, more then £4,500. It is an auction only for the hi-so of Bangkok, not your average expat. But miniature replicas are available on line & you can buy packs to paint your own if you are a budding artist.

The charity pledges to provide at least £50,000 in donations each year to support 25 elephants rescued from domestication or the streets, supporting the mahouts & their families with English lessons, education & even a livelihood for the wives in building their own silk worm farms. A great cause, some fabulous designs, definitely worth checking out.

Frost Magazine

Books and Lifestyle

Tag Archives: Bangkok

A rare day out with Mr P by Alex Bannard Bangkok Correspondent

Glamping near Hellfire Pass by Alex Bannard: our Thailand Correspondent

Another week of back to back diverse but delightful experiences by Alex Bannard – Bangkok correspondent

The Golden Mount & Baan Bat by Alex Bannard | Bangkok Correspondent

Surreal? Probably, but it’s my life Alex Bannard – Bangkok correspondent

My Bangkok Nature Challenge by Alex Bannard – Thailand correspondent

Best Chinese New Year Ever by Alex Bannard – Bangkok Correspondent

My Bangkok Life – The Elephant Parade Words and images by Alex Bannard

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