How on earth, I hear you ask, can somewhere like Cavtat be hidden when it’s in every tourist brochure? I mean, why wouldn’t it be so popular? It’s all of ten minutes from Dubrovnik’s airport, has a few super-large hotels of the sort typically favoured by package operators and plenty of options for drinking and dining along its extensive waterfront.
But, like any resort, there are hidden parts and I’ve teamed up with my friend and collaborator on my books, jet-setting tour director Darko Barisic, to sketch out a perfect day in the place he calls home.
It’s important where you wake up, for sure, and I really do prefer not to be in a big hotel or in the middle of things. I like a quiet enclave, preferably with a view, from where I can easily walk to restaurants and bars. So clearly an apartment actually called The View sounded pretty ideal and it was. Perched on the hill between the main road and the resort, from the balconies (one from the master bedroom and the other from the living area) you can see right across the bay to Dubrovnik and the sunsets are spectacular. The furnishings are supercool, it has every home comfort, and is available through Airbnb.
So after waking up, my next priority is coffee, which necessitates a stroll down the hill into town. In terms of shoreline, Cavtat is the gift that keeps on giving. First is the beach in front of huge Albatros hotel, but following the coast to the left takes you into the first of two bays, past a tucked-in angular harbour into the town centre with the supermarket and cash point machines. Walk through this and into the second bay, which is so much prettier, and where there is a run of cafés, starting with Bakery Peco with a stunning view right down the water. But the coffee’s good in all of them.
Next decision could be beach, a boat trip to Dubrovnik, kayaking, or simply strolling around one or both of the peninsulas. It was very hot when we visited so we simply pottered along the waterfront from the coffee shops to enjoy the incredible views and shade of the trees. Then for me it was back to work – it was a research trip after all.
Darko’s favourite way to spend the day is far more active, with a hike on Snijeznica Mountain, which dominates the whole area. A good starting off point is the village of Mihanici, because you can take a bus from Cavtat to there. If you’ve hired a car you can start higher up, at Kuna, a mere two hours from the top. The views are beyond stunning; over the sea, and inland to Bosnia & Herzegovina, but do take plenty of water. And in places you’ll need a pretty reasonable head for heights.
After that you deserve a decent meal and the locals’ recommendation is Konoba Galija. To find it, carry on from the coffee shops in the second bay, but turn right just in front of the old Franciscan monastery instead of following the coastal track to the left of it. The restaurant has a pretty garden with views of the harbour and fish and meat are cooked on the open grill. The fish platter is apparently second to none.
