ROYAL CHINA – RESTAURANT REVIEW

Who wants some world famous Chinese food? Us, obviously. We took a trip to Baker Street’s Royal China restaurant and experienced huge flavours from its Cantonese menu with some superb service to boot.

Renowned for its Dim Sum and Hong Kong style dishes, alongside seasonal menus, the restaurant has something for any Chinese food lover.

The Baker Street branch is considered to be the Group’s flagship (of its six restaurants in London from Queensway to Harrow on The Hill) and when you walk into the atmospheric dining hall which can hold 250 people, you immediately see why!

Head chef Pak Kuen Ng is somewhat of a celebrity in the biz. Growing up in Hong Kong, his own experiences influencer the flavours. Our favourite dishes on the day included the Honey Roast Pork Puffs, deep fried stuffed crab claw, roast duck Cantonese style and ‘Royal China’ Lotus Leaf Rice. OK, we know that’s a lot on the favourites list but trust us on this one, the flavours are on point!

If you are drawn towards the Dim Sum, you’re in luck – there’s a new menu launching this month which will be served daily from noon through to 5.30pm. A huge mix of Cheung Fung, dumplings, buns and meat pots, all ranging from £3.90 to £6.60 a dish, it’s a budget friendly way to trial the lot however the Black Gold Yolk Lava Buns are eying us up…

You won’t be going thirsty here either, with over 40 different teas to choose from and over 100 wine bins, there’s a tipple to compliment each dish.

Visit https://www.royalchinagroup.co.uk/ to book and see what’s on

 

HEAD TO HAKKASAN FOR CHINESE GOLDEN WEEK

Yesterday saw the start of the Chinese National Holiday, Golden Week. The seven day festival celebrates travelling at a prime time in the country but for those in London, there are still plenty of ways to get involved.

Top of our list? Taking a trip to Hakkasan, two of Central London’s Michelin star Chinese restaurant.

Hakkasan is embracing the holiday and has launched a limited edition, exclusive eight course golden menu. Guests will walk through a ‘river of gold’ as they enter and the menu incorporates gold dim sum and a gold dessert. Scrummy.

A highlight of the exclusive menu is the Golden dim sum trio which begins the eight courses, featuring a crispy lamb puff, chilli crab dumpling and har gau covered in gold leaf.

Also gracing the golden menu is Crispy suckling pig with spiced soy sauce and steamed black kingfish fillet with saffron sauce in addition to Salted egg yolk fried rice. The Golden Week menu finishes off with a Touch of Gold, an exclusive black and gold dessert featuring poached kumquat, sesame crumble, black sesame tuile and a Venezuelan chocolate foam. YUM.

Fancy some liquid gold? Try the Golden Week cocktail, featuring Diplomático Planas white rum, pomelo, lemon and five spice, topped off with Louis Roederer Champagne and sprayed with gold mist.

Whilst Hakasan’s golden menu isn’t something to try on a budget break, it’s definitely worth splashing out for at £88 per person. (Keeping in tradition with China’s lucky number eight) for parties of two or more.

It’s available at both Hakkasan Hanway Place and Hakkasan Mayfair until 7th October.

 

Wong Kei – the most famous Chinese restaurant in London!

Wongkei restaurant in Wardour Street Soho

My friend Roy at the Wongkei, which has been frequenting since 1979

I was having a chat with my friend Roy, when I mentioned that I’d never actually been to Wong Kei Chinese restaurant. He was astounded. After all, Wong Kei is hugely famous. It serves incredibly cheap food, but has a reputation for having rude waiters and for not accepting any kind of credit cards – cash only! It is in the lower end of Wardour Street, in the heart of London’s China Town and seems to have existed forever.

It has entered London folklore. Many people will tell stories of having arguments with the waiters there. And I remember at one poetry performance, a woman reading a poem about the drunks who used to come to Wong Kei late at night.

Because it is such an institution, I suggested that Roy and I should go there for lunch. Roy is a regular at the restaurant – he first visited in 1979 – and he says it has hardly changed in all that time. When we visited it was mid-day and at that time of day the restaurant seems to operate as a sort of cheap canteen for the local Chinese community.

It is absolutely basic in its décor. Lines of Formica tables, sturdy restaurant chairs, no table cloths and a pot of chilli sauce on every table. As soon as we arrived someone brought a pot of tea – which is free.

Roy admits to being a creature of habit and generally has beef with fried noodles. I had roast duck with soup noodles, which is my favourite Chinese lunch.

The food arrived fairly promptly and it was very pleasant. I felt that the duck was slightly overcooked and I’ve had better noodles- these lacked the sort of bite that I enjoy. The broth was rich and tasty and there was plenty of chilli sauce to spice things up.

Wong Kei in Wardour Street Soho

Wong Kei at lunchtime – serving seriously cheap Chinese food

Likewise Roy’s beef was perfectly nice. I found it a bit blander than I’m used to.. Again the noodles weren’t as crisply as I’d have liked. But the point of the restaurant comes when you ask for the bill. The price for two meals was £10.50. In the West End of London, it’s probably the cheapest meal you can find.

It is busy, it is bustling, the waiters put food on the table and take it away. The food isn’t top class, but it is ridiculously cheap. It’s not a place for a romantic meal, but as an alternative to a lunchtime sandwich it makes a nice change.

中国新的一年快乐 ( I hope this wishes everyone a happy Chinese New Year )

The next couple of weeks is a busy time in my kitchen, Pancake Day, Valentines, I have to cook soul food for Mardis Gras, a rocking Jambalaya, Buffalo Wings for when I watch the Super Bowl and most definitely celebrate the Chinese New Year. I hasten to add I am not American but they would kind of have this month’s events sewn in the bag if not for Chinese New Year. Now everyone has most likely had at one time in their life a Sweet and Sour or Cantonese Pork or Chicken from the local take away. You know the big deep fried doughy balls of slightly tough meat in a sharp Day-Glo orange sauce. It is about as close to being authentic Chinese as my mother is.

I can only hope to cap Sweet and Sour by giving you a version of a totally bastardised American Chinese dish. Again sweet, a little spicy and altogether created for the palates of mid-twentieth century America a dish called General Tso’s Chicken. The dish is named after General Tso Tsung-tang, a Qing dynasty general and statesman, however, any connection is very tenuous. The origins of the dishes invention are in the 1950’s influx of Chinese to the United States.

General Tso ChickenThe dish is reported to have been introduced to New York City in the early 1970s as an example of Hunan cooking though it is not typical of Hunanese cuisine, which is traditionally very spicy and rarely sweet. Fuchsia Dunlop, in the New York Times, identified the claim of a Taiwan-based chef Peng Chang-Kuei. Peng was the Nationalist government banquets’ chef and fled to Taiwan during the Chinese Civil War. In 1973, he moved to New York to open a restaurant and experimented and developed Hunanese-style cuisine adopting it for western tastes.

Other chefs claim that they created the dish or variations which include vegetables, meat other than chicken in a sweetened sauce. Later the chicken was deep fried before being added to the sauce, now almost every American Chinese restaurant has General Tso’s Chicken on the menu. Where the dish is cooked outside of the United States the dish is less sweet with more vinegar or rice wine vinegar and soy sauce in the ingredients. This is more to my taste and I have an admission I’m really rather partial to it, so here is my version.

General Tso’s Chicken      serves 4
As always a general note of caution
BE VERY CAREFUL WHEN FRYING IN HOT OIL.

 

1 Carrot, peeled and cut into fine strips

100 gr Button Mushrooms, wiped and quartered
1 Red Pepper, diced
A small bunch of Spring Onions, washed and sliced into 2 cm pieces
1 small Red Chilli, finely sliced
3 Cloves of Garlic, peeled and crushed
3 cm piece of Ginger, peeled and finely chopped
100 ml quality Chicken Stock
2 tablespoons of Oil
2 tablespoons Soft Brown Sugar
1 tablespoon Tomato Paste
2 tablespoon Sherry Vinegar
2 tablespoons Rice Wine or Dry Sherry
1 tablespoon Corn Flour
2 Cloves
A good pinch of Chinese Five Spice

for the fried chicken
2 skinned chicken breasts, washed and diced
2 egg whites
Juice of 1 lemon
50 gr Corn Flour
Sea Salt and Cayenne Pepper
2 pints Vegetable Oil

For the sauce heat the vegetable oil in a wok and stir-fry the carrots, mushrooms, garlic and ginger for two to three minutes then add the peppers. In a small pan, heat the chicken stock, vinegar, rice wine, sugar, cloves and Chinese five spice and bring to the boil. Simmer for twenty minutes then thicken with the corn flour mixed with a little water and the tomato puree. After another five minutes simmering, strain into the wok and set on a very low heat.

For the chicken, sieve the corn flour into a large bowl and add a generous amount of salt and cayenne pepper. In a separate bowl whisk the egg whites and lemon juice. Then dip the chicken pieces into the corn flour, the egg whites and back into the corn flour. In your wok or a large heavy bottom, pan heat the oil to 160°C / 320 F using a thermometer to check. If you do not have a thermometer have a few cubes of stale white bread to hand. Place a bread cube in the oil if it rises to the surface and cooks to a golden brown in a couple of minutes the oil is hot enough.

Fry the chicken in batches carefully lowering into the hot oil, for around six to eight minutes or until the batter is crisp and golden, turning from time to time with a large slotted spoon. When the chicken is cooked using the slotted spoon remove from the hot oil, drain on kitchen paper and place into the hot sauce. Add the Spring onions and simmer for a couple more minutes and then serve with steamed rice and garnish with a few extra, finely sliced spring onion tops.

Hakkasan Chinese New Year Menu Review | The Best of London

We have reviewed Hakkasan before and are never disappointed. This michelin-starred restaurant feels like the centre of everything. People talk about Hakkasan in hushed tones in office, they pull happy faces when you say you have been, talking about how delicious the food is. Hakkasan on Hanway Place, the original Hakkasan, is the place to see and be seen. That doesn’t mean you won’t be able to relax however. There is no pretension for all its class and the staff are very friendly and know their stuff. Hakkasan is, without doubt, the best of London. Hakkasan is where to go for traditional Cantonese cuisine.

For Chinese New Year, the year of the sheep, Hakkasan will be honouring the Chinese “Wishing Tree” tradition by collecting wishes from around the world as well as offering a nine dish festive feast perfect for family and friends. The wish collection and signature menu will be available to guests from Sunday 8th February to Sunday 1st March.

This nine dish menu starts with small eats to start.

Dim Sum, Spicy lamb lupin wrap and Golden fried soft shell crab with red chili and curry leaf.

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The starters are stunning. The Dim Sum is always brilliant. Scallops, crab meat, prawn: they are just heavenly. The spicy lamb lupin wrap is perfect, there is a good heat from the sauce and the lamb is expertly cooked. It has a delicious soft texture. The fried soft crab with red chilli and curry leaf is superb. The crab is amazing and the curry leaf goes well, a wonderful and original dish.

To go with our food we have a Kumquatcha, a specialty cocktail representing good fortune, prosperity and happiness, I have a virgin one and my colleague has the real deal. Both taste amazing. A brilliant combination of Germana cachaça, Campari, Kumquat and lime.

The mains include a number of signature Hakkasan items like their Spicy prawn, Stir-fry black pepper rib eye beef with Merlot and Grilled Chilean sea bass in honey, We also have Stir-fry Lily bulb and garlic shoot and Abalone and dry scallop fried rice,

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The spicy prawn has generous and delicious prawns in a yummy sauce, the Stir-fry black pepper rib eye beef with Merlot is just perfect and Grilled Chilean sea bass in honey is definitely one of the best sea bass dishes I have ever had. The Stir-fry Lily bulb and garlic shoot is as tasty as it is original and the Abalone and dry scallop fried rice is the best rice ever. I still have dreams about it. There is no bum note in this menu: all of this food is just one mouth-watering dish after another.

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The desserts are as amazing as the other dishes. Stunning in their originality, a Kumquat Wishing Tree: chocolate, caramelised macadamia and cocoa rocks, and delicious chocolate treats hanging off a Kumquat tree end the meal. The dishes are out of this world. Not all Asian restaurants do dessert well. I am glad to say that Hakkasan is definitely an exception.

I also have another mocktail. Hakkasan do mocktails very well. Perfect if you don’t want to drink. If you eat from the Chinese New Year signature menu you will receive a red envelope with special gift of a complimentary cocktail or mocktail. More reason to indulge.

Hakkasan’s limited edition menu created by Michelin-starred Executive Head Chef Tong Chee Hwee includes a selection of its acclaimed signature dishes as well as a contemporary interpretation on authentic Chinese New Year fare.The Chinese New Year menu is available for £88.88 per person. A la carte items will be individually priced, starting at £12.88.

For more information on Chinese New Year at Hakkasan, please visit hakkasan.com.

 

 

 

The Life of a Banana PP Wong Book Review

Novels that bring an insight into race and culture can be sorely lacking. PP Wong is the first British-born Chinese novelist to be published and I find that very sad indeed. It does not say much for diversity. We can’t necessarily blame publishers, they only buy what they think will sell, what the public want. So maybe it is time we opened our eyes more to other cultures and the absolute horror of racism.

After the heavy opening paragraph I hope you don’t get the wrong idea, The Life of a Banana is a (mostly) funny tale of a young Chinese girl growing up in London. It is written in her style, something that is very hard to do, and harder to do well.

Of course, not everyone is racist or a bully and racists and bullies just embarrass people who aren’t racist and bullies, but some of the things Xing Li goes through are truly horrible and shocking. This is an excellent book on identity and the end of childhood. I really enjoyed reading it and it is a triumphant first novel.

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Xing Li is what the Chinese call a banana – yellow on the outside and white on the inside. Although born and raised in London, she never feels like she fits in. When her mother dies, she moves with her older brother to live with venomous Grandma, strange Uncle Ho and Hollywood actress Auntie Mei. Her only friend is Jay – a mixed raced Jamaican boy with a passion for classical music.

Then Xing Li’s life takes an even harsher turn: the school bullying escalates and her uncle requests she assist him in an unthinkable favour. Her happy childhood becomes a distant memory as her new life is infiltrated with the harsh reality that comes with adolescence.

Consumed by secrets, violence and confusing family relations, Xing Li tries to find hope wherever she can. She realises that in order to find her own identity, she must first discover what it means to be both Chinese and British.

The Life of a Banana is available here.

Hakkasan Golden Week Restaurant Review

Hakkasan is one of the most happening places in London. This was abundantly obvious when we went to review it. It was packed out on a Tuesday night, filled with the great and good of London. When I went to the bathroom, I washed my hands next to three supermodels. The decor is stunning and everything about Hakkasan is glamourous and exciting.

We went to review the Golden Week, which celebrates the annual Chinese holiday Golden Week which is between the 29th September and 12th October. To mark Golden Week, the Michelin-starred restaurants feature limited edition authentic à la carte and set menus. In addition, guests who dine on the specialty menu will receive an exclusive gift in celebration of the holiday.

 

Golden Week is considered to be China’s biggest annual national holiday, spanning seven days in October where all workers are given three days of paid time off. Consequently it is a popular period of time when the Chinese travel significantly around the world to experience luxury offerings. Traditionally Golden Week takes place between 1st and 7th October, however Hakkasan will be offering the dedicated menus for a longer period of time to accommodate all travellers.

 

Executive Chef Tong of Hakkasan has created menus to cater specifically to traditional Chinese tastes. The set menu is £88.88 per person – celebrating the traditionally auspicious number 8 – and includes Peking duck with caviar; Dim sum platter; Spicy Szechuan rib-eye beef with enoki mushroom; Hakka stew pork belly; fried rice with diced abalone, and to finish, deep-fried sesame balls with green tea and peach. Golden Week à la carte menu includes equally authentic Chinese fare, such as Double boiled ginseng and Chinese herb soup with sea whelk; Braised claypot-cooked seabass and Fried tofu with spinach and seafood. A box containing hand-made golden Champagne and popping candy macarons are given at the end of the meal for each guest to take home as a gift.

To ensure the experience in the restaurants is enjoyable and efficient, Hakkasan has Mandarin-speaking staff on-site and in reservations, and accepts China Union Pay, the Chinese credit card of choice. Menus and websites will be Mandarin translated and staff will be fully trained in Chinese etiquette.

 

In addition to London, several Hakkasan restaurants around the world including Beverly Hills, Las Vegas, New York, San Francisco and Shanghai will also be celebrating Golden Week with exclusive menus in order to provide the experience to Chinese nationals who are travelling elsewhere. Each location’s menu will vary and offer a slightly different twist tailored to each location.

We started off by ordering mocktails. I have a Coco Passion and my colleague has a Kowloon Cooler. Both are delicious. Our starters come and we are very impressed. Presentation is amazing, service is excellent and we are already impressed before even trying anything.

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The food is amazing, as you would expect. Peking duck with caviar and a Dim sum platter. It is also unique. The duck is very special, not served like your usual duck, it is very neat and the pancake and duck is all together, sauce on the side with caviar on top. It is amazing. The dum sum platter is truly wonderful. These are the best dim sum we have ever had. Just exceptional.

When our mains arrive it really is something. The table really is not big enough: Huge Shrimp which is perfectly cooked, delicious Pak Choi, perfect Spicy Szechuan rib-eye beef with enoki mushroom; an amazing Roasted crispy chicken with wild mushroom in oyster sauce: Braised whole sea bass in clay pot which is perfectly cooked, the sauce is amazing and the fish is tender; Hakka stew pork belly which is just right; fried rice with diced abalone which is a particular favourite: creamy and in a delicious sauce. It is a feast and a rather superb one. The food is outstanding.

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Hakkasan

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To finish we have deep-fried sesame balls with green tea and peach. These are small and delicious. Perfect to end the meal. The waitress tells me Hakkasan has a lot of regular customers and they really love it when something like Golden Week happens as they get to try something different.

As we are leaving we are handed a beautiful gift bag which has some delicious macaroons inside. We have them the next day as we are so full. Hakkasan is an amazing restaurant, one of the best in London. We will definitely be back.

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Hakkasan Mayfair
Address: 17 Bruton St, London W1J 6QB
Phone:020 7907 1888
Hours: Open today · 12:00 pm – 12:30 am

http://hakkasan.com

 

 

HKK Restaurant Review

“Intricate nests of deliciousness”

 

On the eve of Monday, coincidentally when the moon was at its biggest and brightest this year, we were welcomed into the Michelin-starred Chinese restaurant HKK to sample its two moon cakes as part of the 15 course tasting menu.

 

Centred within the crux of bustling Shoreditch, Liverpool Street and Old Street, HKK presents itself modestly on Worship Street, but its contemporary décor invites business types and couples.

 

One thing to emphasise before I get on to the culinary journey – this isn’t just a dining experience, it’s an experience in itself.

 

You’ll be immersed in Chinese culture as you sip on room-temperature Sake and partake in a tea ceremony, yet the beautifully presented intricate nests of deliciousness are perfectly aligned with modern day cuisine.

 

You’ll need to leave all allergies and intolerances at the door as the 15 course menu tempts your taste buds with fresh vegetables (and flowers), sea food, fish, chicken, duck, lamb, beef and even flakes of gold.

 

Each plate presented a prefect mouthful and each was introduced by our server, Marco, with a flair of expertise and personal experience.

hkk hkkreview

If you can’t remember the name of each dish (you will remember the flavour), don’t worry as towards the end of the meal, you’ll be handed a personal menu, including drinks, by the Manager, Mehmet, and Head Chef, Tong Chee Hwee.

 

The whelk salad and Shaoxing wine jelly started off our evening. The soft sweet jelly against the crunch of the cucumber and bitter flower infused effortlessly on the palette.

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The roasted Poulet de Bresse, foie gras and mandarin confit presented an assortment of textures and tastes. The sharp citrus crunch of the mandarin flakes contrasted against the gamey foie gras. The tender chicken slithered on the tongue.

 

The Cherry wood roasted Peking duck was a far cry from the imitations in other restaurants. For this course, we were asked to come to the serving table in the middle of the restaurant where the chef cut the plump skin and moist cuts of duck from the bone. The skin was unlike anything I’d seen before. It reflected hues of red, orange and bronze under the lights. This was a real highlight as the meat was juicy, the hoi sin sauce delicate and the brown sugar added a creative twist to the traditional dish.

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The Dim sum trilogy will leave your mouth dancing with flavours. The squidgy dumpling with fishy freshness and speckles of caviar contrasted with the spice of the chicken dumpling, soothed with a dash of soy sauce.

 

The Sugar snaps, lotus root and water chestnut cleansed the palette and acted as a reprieve from the previous fish and meat dishes. It was immaculately presented and the crunch of the sugar snaps contrasted with the milky texture of the smoky chestnut.

 

At this point, our Sommelier – Almudena – selected a 2013 bottle of Rosa dei Frati, Ca dei Frati, from Veneto, Italy and its fruity smell and taste accompanied the dish perfectly.

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The moon cake itself – a watermelon cake and green tea sesame ball served with Da Hong Pau tea was sweet and succulent while the full bodied and smoky flavour of the tea soothed the richness of the cakes.

 

One of the highlights was the Seared Wagyu beef with Enoki mushrooms. Perfectly rare but oozing with meaty flavours, it was served on a crispy and salty pancake- like bowl. It was simply divine.

 

With three desserts coming up, I was excited. The raspberry and dark chocolate delice with cocoa nibs was thick, gooey and rich and the popping candy and flakes of gold were a unique taste experience.

 

We had a wonderful evening, the quality of the food and the presentation far exceeded our expectations, though we were not surprised to learn the Michelin star was awarded within the first year of the restaurant opening.

 

You’ll leave satiated, relaxed and cultured from the HKK experience.

 

See the website for more information: http://hkklondon.com/