Tag Archives: fashion industry

Vogue Model Exposes Financial, Physical & Exploitation in the Fashion Industry

Posted on by

the model manifesto, modelling, fashion industry, exploitation,

I was interested to see this book on the modeling industry. I have worked as an actor and I have also done modeling in the past. There are no words for how much I hated working as a model. I was never actually a model, but the way women are treated is awful. On the other side, I have covered London Fashion Week many times. Seeing how thin and young the models were always tugged on my conscious. 

Leanne Maskell is a warrior. This brave book she has written should be read by every model and everyone who works in the fashion industry. It should indeed become a manifesto. Bravo to Leanne. I hope she sells millions of copies of this book. 

The Life of a Model: Physical, Financial and Emotional Exploitation

Vogue model releases an A-Z anti-exploitation manual for the fashion industry

Why this book matters:

  • Exploitation has become accepted in the industry, with 29.7% of models being inappropriately touched on a shoot and 28% of models facing pressure to sleep with someone at work.
  • Over half of all models start working before they are 16, yet America is the only country to legally enforce breaks, chaperones and limit working hours. The lack of restrictions led to 14-year-old model Vlada Dzyuba working herself to death in 2017.
  • The pressure on models to lose weight and the constant rejection from clients can leave them vulnerable to mental illness, with 31% suffering from eating disorders and 68% from anxiety and/or depression.
  • Models face intense financial exploitation, with hidden contracts signed on their behalf meaning agencies in the UK take as much as 45% commission and can charge required expenses such as transport, personal trainers, nutritionists and hairdressers to the model without their prior knowledge or consent.
  • Modelling can be very dangerous, with 77% of models said they had been exposed to alcohol or drugs while on a job and 50% exposed to cocaine.

Sixteen hour working days, forced onto starvation diet plans, waiting months to be paid, no changing rooms, hair bleached beyond repair, made to strip naked at work, swallowing cotton wool soaked in water to curb your appetite – this is the ugly truth behind the life of a model.

 

Leanne Maskell is the author of The Model Manifesto, an A to Z anti-exploitation manual to the fashion industry which aims to educate current and aspiring models on how to find success and avoid the pitfalls of physical, financial, and emotional exploitation.

 

The book’s advice covers essential topics every model needs to know including: finding the right agency, creating a portfolio, understanding tax, working aboard, the role of social media, avoiding hidden agency expenses and knowing your own legal rights.

 

Leanne Maskell, author, Vogue model and activist.

 

Leanne started modelling at the age of thirteen, working for clients such as Vogue and London Fashion Week. Now, with 13 years of experience working regularly for clients such as ASOS, Amazon and New Look, she has created a book to give models the information she wished she had been provided with throughout her career.

 

While she loved her career, she frequently suffered from exploitation, including two men changing her into tights on a shoot when she was 13, having her drink spiked, being heavily pressured into shooting revealing imagery and being sent to a hotel room for a “casting” for escorts by her agency. The cost of Leanne’s successful career was suffering from anorexia, bulimia and severe depression.

 

Leanne empowered herself by studying Law at University and has combined her legal and modelling experience to empower other models in the hope that they do not encounter the same pitfalls as she has. Whilst writing The Model Manifesto, she created policies to improve the modelling industry which has led to a legal career advising on immigration law & mental health law policy.

 

“The Model Manifesto has been written to protect the 99% of models that don’t make it big – the ones who are treated as disposable objects. It also aims to educate those who wish to be models on how to avoid exploitation, empower themselves and enjoy the benefits of the job.” – Leanne Maskell

 

The Model Manifesto by Leanne Maskell is out 02 May 2019 and is priced at £14.99. To find out more go to: www.themodelmanifesto.com

LONDON PROMOTES: New Rights For Models

Posted on by

Victoria Keon-Cohen has spent the last ten years working as a fashion model and knows both the highs and lows of the job. “I hated modelling for a long time because of the isolation. I was constantly gritting my teeth to get through the day. The industry is a far cry from what it was in the 1980s; there is now an oversupply of labour, and models are seen as disposable.”

Victoria describes the difficulties of the profession: “I was working in Milan and felt like I was a dog in the gutter half the time. I spent four hours every night in the gym just from loneliness. I had never been so unhappy in my life. The final pushing point came when I had a serious conflict with my agency, so I left.” After quitting the profession she moved back to London to study. Whilst there she met with Dunja Knezevic, a fellow model and friend, and they talked about their dissatisfaction at the industry.

“We exchanged stories of frustration. We’d both had great experiences as well but the inconsistencies were intolerable. One day a girl was dancing in the park for money to get a motel because her agency refuses to advance [money for] their own flat, the next day she’s in a luxurious villa in Spain” said Victoria.

Their conversation led them to consult Equity, the union for performers in the entertainment industry, and ask them to allow models to join. Towards the end of 2007 they succeeded in their request and the Equity Models Committee was formed.

One of the Committee’s biggest successes occurred last year when Equity, working alongside the British Fashion Council (BFC) as part of the Model Programme, introduced the first ever catwalk contract for London Fashion Week, setting out minimum rates of pay, private changing areas, breaks and refreshments. It also included a clause stating that nudity or semi-nudity must be agreed in advance, helping younger and more vulnerable models avoid being pressured into agreeing work that makes them uncomfortable.

This year Victoria, Dunja and the rest of the committee are focusing on a campaign called London Promotes in association with the BFC and the Model Programme. The campaign will include a viral video due to be shown on fashion blogs, social networking sites and both the BFC and Equity websites. The name highlights the important aspects of the campaign:

Privacy: care and backstage code of conduct.

Rates: ensures payment at least equal to the Model Programme recommended minimums.

Opportunities: for models to obtain prestigious British and international campaigns.

Model Programme: an alliance of the AMA, BFC and the Greater London Authority (GLA) working together for models’ welfare.

Of Age: Only models over 16 walking on the London Fashion Week catwalks.

Terms: conditions of employment covered by the Model Programme’s minimum terms.

Equity: joining the Union for models offers the right to Union protection.

Sanctuary: The Models Sanctuary provides a safe haven for models working during London Fashion Week.

One of the key benefits of union representation for models is legal support in case of any dispute with an agency or client, as well as facial insurance in case of accident. Dunja gives this advice to models starting out in the industry: “Join the union before you have an issue at work because Equity cannot help with any problems you may have had before becoming a member.”

She goes to give a realistic view of the job: “It’s nothing like what you would expect so treat it as the serious business that it is. Forget the glamour and exorbitant cheques. But expect an incredible experience of travel and making connections that you never would have made otherwise.”

This latest campaign looks set to change the fashion industry for the better once again at London Fashion Week. As Victoria explains, “London Promotes is looking to the future for an industry built on respect and support, with opportunities and a strong network of collaboration between Equity, the Models Programme and the Mayor’s office [GLA]. It’s a massive turning point for an industry where no one is just out for themselves anymore; it acknowledges that we have to work together for a stronger workplace for us all.”

Alexa Brown is an actress and model and a member of the Equity Model’s Committee. www.alexabrown.co.uk

This article was previously published in the September issue of Style Capital magazine.