One of the hottest summers in Thailand has just drawn to a close and as the rainy season dawned, Alex Bannard and her family joined friends glamping near Hellfire Pass.
It was to be a compensation prize after Alex’s husband’s ‘blokes’ fishing weekend seemed to hook only appalling seasickness, and no fish. As Alex says: thinking we were going to Khao Yai I was vaguely surprised to learn we were actually going to be based in a campsite north of Kanchanburi near Hellfire Pass. The kids were excited at the prospect of going glamping, if not at little confused by the prospect of glamourous camping.
We left early and made the journey across Bangkok in around 20 mins. Amazing how easy it is to navigate the city when there is no traffic. And it afforded us an unplanned stop off at Kanchanburi to see a train cross the bridge over the River Kwae and pop into a friend’s newly opened waterpark. The park was fun. My 8 year old was so brave tackling the steepest slide and as we embarked on the last leg of the journey to Hintock Camp site we were refreshed.
As we approached the campsite we drove through the nearby village where villagers were dancing along the road celebrating the nuns who were leaving for their spiritual journey at a nearby temple. The celebrations lasted until late into the evening and kicked off again at 4am as they finally left for their new life.
The campsite did not disappoint: the tent’s were raised off the ground on stilts, had their own outdoor bathrooms, proper beds, even A/C. This is how camping should be – glamping. The kids ran around the campsite whilst the grown ups enjoyed a celebratory G&T or several. Then the heavens opened and the evening BBQ buffet around the campfire was relocated to the restaurant over looking the river. Although there was not much sleep to be had thanks to the nuns’ farewell in the village next door.
The next day we had a blissfully relaxing day at the campsite, whose tropical gardens were the perfect back drop to games of cricket and lazy coffees. Just before lunch attempts at fishing commenced. Mr P aced it catching 2 fish almost immediately. The mums took the children to the fresh spring pool, with stunning views over the river. That afternoon after a heavenly head and shoulder massage we took the kids on a long tail boat ride down the river. And we celebrated the end of a fabulous day rain-free by the campfire.
All too soon it was time to leave but not before we wandered over a nearby suspension bridge to investigate a small temple and it’s 5 huge Buddhas which reside next to it before heading to Hellfire Pass. Walking along the path which had been carved out of the rocks by hand by British, Australian & Dutch POW’s and local’s it is not hard to imagine the ghastly inhumane conditions those men had to endure.
12,000 POW’s died subjected to brutal working and living conditions, with little food, very limited medicine and absolutely no comfort. Hellfire’s Pass is so called because the men often worked their 15-18 hour shifts in firelight, emaciated and exhausted. It certainly gave me something to reflect upon on the journey home especially one of the quotes on the memorial plaques: ‘Go home and tell them, they gave up their tomorrow’s for your today.’ And we should never forget the bravery of previous generations who fought for the democracy, safety and peace we enjoy.
Of course with children in tow we could not explore the full path and one day I will walk the full 7km pass. But for now it was enough. Besides the heavens opened, well it is rainy season after all, lightening the mood, drenching but refreshing us and hastening us towards the car and the journey back to Bangkok. But of course, we will not forget, and we will return.