An Award Winning Cheesy Evening With Nigel Haworth & Colston Bassett At Northcote

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It may be a bit of a trek into the countryside from the centre of Manchester but when asked to visit a Michelin starred restaurant you don’t say no. Nigel Haworth of Northcote had teamed up with Colston Bassett dairy to create a food and wine paired menu using Colston Bassett’s awarding winning stilton and Shropshire blue.

We were greeted with tapioca crackers dusted with the Shropshire blue as well as two types of risotto balls with the stilton. The crackers were my favourite; they were light and fluffy with the lightest cheese flavour.

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The starter followed with onion caramel charred hangar steak, pickled artichokes and Colston Bassett stilton. Charred cabbage gave the dish a bitterness whilst the sweetness of the pickled artichokes balanced the dish. Paired with Ramos Pinto Adriano white reserva port to bring out the caramel notes of the steak I thought this worked superbly. Some weren’t keen on the charred cabbage finding it didn’t work with the dish but I liked the way it added something different to the dish as a whole.

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The main was Goosnargh cornfed guinea fowl, a Colston Bassett Shropshire blue cheese crumb, damsons, girolles and a Colston Bassett Shropshire blue cheese mash. Despite the inclusion of the cheese into many elements of this dish it was not overpowering with the meat cooked medium rare and the damsons providing a delightful tartness against the richness of the meat. Our wine expert for the evening Craig Bancroft explained that he could have easily paired this dish with a white wine but settled on the Chanson Le Bourgogne pinot noir as the raspberry, cherry and red berry notes worked too well with the guinea fowl to leave it out. He was right to and, considering I’m not really a lover of red wine, this one was beautifully smooth and highlighted the damsons really nicely.

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I wasn’t sure how Nigel would incorporate cheese into the dessert but the figs in port with stilton ice cream was incredible and easily my favourite dish of the night. The port had been reduced to a treacle toffee like consistency and when paired with the Ramos Pinto had a wonderfully fruity taste on the palate with enhanced the flavour of the figs.

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Colston Bassett have won numerous awards for their cheeses with their stilton being a rich cream colour with blue veining throughout. A smooth and creamy cheese there is no acidic taste whatsoever, just a beautiful mellow taste that melts in the mouth. The Shropshire blue is a similar story with the blue veins spread throughout. This cheese has a creamy taste and is milder than the stilton with a delicate sweetness which I love.

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Thanks to Northcote and Colston Bassett for putting the menu together and special thanks to Starlings Photography for the amazing photographs featured above.

You would think this exquisite meal was enough but no, petit fours followed with Turkish delight that melted in the mouth and mini eccles cakes that had a crispy pastry case finished off the event along with some Colston Bassett cheese to enjoy in their natural form.

 

 

The Stockbridge Restaurant Review Edinburgh

As our taxi parks up in a residential street, the first thing I have to ask the driver is: “Where is The Stockbridge Restaurant?” But this is not a negative. The Stockbridge Restaurant, situated in the bohemian area of Stockbridge – in Edinburgh’s New Town – is hidden from view down a steep flight of town house steps, in the basement of a Georgian building.

We are the first guests to arrive at 7 pm on a Friday evening in November. Our waitress – an elegant young woman with a European accent – takes our coats and seats us at a table for two in a cosy corner of this room. There is a big table to our right that is set for a party of ten and six other tables positioned intimately in this space, which is more like a friend’s dining room than a restaurant.

There are black painted stonewalls decorated with mirrors; paintings by Scottish colourists; and purple patterned black out curtains along the street facing wall. The small bar, to the rear of this dining room, is made up of wooden shelves that are stacked with a variety of Scottish Gins to include Boe, Hendricks, The Botanist, Old Raj and Edinburgh Gin. But the most charming parts of this interior are the linen covered tables, with linen napkins and gold damask chairs, as well as the old fireplace filled with glowing candles and a cascade of white melted candle wax.

Chive and Chervil Pesto

To help us settle in, we are given a wine and drinks list, as well as a basket of toasted bread. The bread is cut into triangles and there are three varieties to choose from – white, brown and black olive bread. To show us that The Stockbridge Restaurant is a little more unusual than many Edinburgh dining establishments, we are given the traditional choice of toast topping (a small ceramic pot filled with butter) and an original offering. In a small ceramic pouring pot is a runny grass green liquid that we are told contains a homemade chive and chervil pesto.

My mum orders two large glasses of white wine for us – one glass of the Stoney Range Sauvignon Blanc from Sherwood Estate in New Zealand and one glass of the Santa Rosa Viognier from Argentina – while I pour this chive and chervil pesto over a triangle of black olive bread.

This combination reminds me of a lovely spring day and I quickly pour more pesto onto a second triangle of bread.

Set Menu or A La Carte Menu

Our waitress gives us a choice of two menus. There is a Set Menu available from Tuesday to Friday, which offers two courses for £20.95 or three courses for £24.95. Or, there is the A La Carte Menu available from 7 pm between Tuesday and Saturday. After having a quick scan over both menus, we decide on the A la Carte Menu – the more imaginative of the two.

There are five starters to choose from and all are priced at £7.95 except for the seared scallops with butternut squash puree, apple salsa, walnuts and Serrano ham, which is advertised at £12.45. There are two meat dishes, two fish dishes and one cheese dish to choose from.

The braised ox cheeks tempt me… but I decide to have an evening of game dishes instead – since we are now into November and the Scottish grouse, partridge, pheasant and hind season is in full swing. Jason Gallagher, Chef and Owner, sources all his game meat from Braehead Foods in Kilmarnock, Ayrshire (http://www.braeheadfoods.co.uk/).

I order the partridge breast and confit leg with leek puree, wild mushrooms and Madeira sauce to start and my mum picks the trio of cheese: goats cheese fondant with beetroot puree, blue cheese soufflé and cheddar cheese sausage.

The five maincourses on offer (two fish dishes and three game dishes) start at £20.95 and rise to £24.95 for the grouse and venison options. My mum orders the grilled halibut while I order the venison loin with venison pie.

The imagination that has gone into this selection of maincourses is superb, especially if you love game. But, if I had to highlight something, I would say that the maincourses might be off-putting to a vegetarian – especially as one of the two fish dishes is served with crispy pancetta. Not all vegetarians eat fish, so it would be good to offer a 100% vegetarian option on the A La Carte maincourse menu – similar to what the chef has already done with the starter menu.

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Amuse Bouche

To our surprise, two small square dishes are placed in front of us containing an amuse bouche  (The French term, ‘amuse bouche’ means a tiny portion of food served before the starter to stimulate the appetite).

The dish looks more Japanese than French though – probably due to the colour of the small square dish, which is black. But, it’s a cute idea.

Everything is in miniature. Sitting on top of a tiny rectangular sized piece of Parma ham is half a cherry tomato filled with tiny mozzarella cubes and sliced spring onions. This miniature wonder is finished off with a drizzle of balsamic glaze and a sprig of parsley.

In two bites, it is gone. But it leaves a lovely fresh taste in my mouth and has done what it is meant to do – it has whetted my appetite.

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Starters

My mum and I both smile as our starters are laid in front of us. This is not what we were expecting at all – but in the best of ways.

My partridge breast and confit leg rest on a bed of vibrant green, the leek puree, and are surrounded by an assortment of wild mushrooms oozing with Madeira sauce. A small bouquet of parsley adds the finishing touch to this dish.

Even though I am mesmerised by the presentation of my mums starter, I cannot wait to start my own and end up trying a few bites of partridge and mushroom before we both clink glasses and toast the beginning of our meal.

To say the partridge is tender would be an understatement – the meat breaks off the confit leg at the lightest touch and the pink breast is cooked to perfection. The whole starter works very well and I can’t help thinking that this would be an achievable dish to cook at home. It’s a simple and traditional pairing of ingredients, cooked and presented in a modern fine dining style.

But the winner for best presentation must go to my mum’s starter: the trio of cheeses. The three different cheese dishes are presented side by side on a rectangular white plate – and they are all in miniature.

A small cheddar cheese sausage, which looks like a potato croquette, sits in the centre of a red circle of chilli sauce to the left. The goat’s cheese fondant rests on a brush stroke of beetroot puree and has three homemade savoury wafers rising like candles from its centre. And, lastly, the blue cheese soufflé has a dab of blue cheese sauce on top. This artistic presentation is interwoven with basil leaves still attached to their stem.

Sorbet

Just to remind us that we are in a fine dining establishment, our waitress brings us two small square dishes, each containing one scoop of homemade passionfruit sorbet, to suck slowly before the maincourse. The amuse bouche and the sorbet have been a welcome surprise – and they have transformed our three course meal into a five course meal.

Maincourses

The sorbet has cleansed our palate in preparation for the maincourse. This time it is my choice that wins the best presentation award.

My mum’s grilled halibut sits on a bed of crispy pancetta and crushed potatoes that are surrounded by spinach, mushrooms and an Arran mustard sauce. The fried quail egg rests to the side of this piece of halibut and is decorated with parsley. It looks appetising and it tastes very good, but it melts into insignificance next to my venison loin with venison pie – this presentation and combination is the best I have seen anywhere, including some famous London restaurants.

I took the chefs advice and had the venison loin cooked medium rare and it looks perfect, resting in a fan shape on top of the parsnip puree and surrounded by braised red cabbage, roasted vegetables, balls of piped mash potato and just enough port sauce.

But the pièce de résistanceis the venison pie, which comes in a ramekin with two rustic savoury wafers rising out of the mashed potato topping like deer antlers. In short, it is absolutely delicious. Everything on the plate compliments each other, from the sweet flavours of the parsnips and red cabbage to the very rustic flavours of the meat and plain potato mash.

Desserts

Eager not to miss our train home, we deliberate on whether to have desserts – as they can take between 20 to 30 minutes to prepare. But, after being assured by the host and co-owner of The Stockbridge Restaurant, Jane Walker (wife of Jason Gallagher) that she will put in a special request with the kitchen to make sure that our desserts come as quickly as possible, we order the chocolate brulee with chocolate brownie and the banana tart tatin.

Jane has just arrived in the restaurant. The locals eat here late and it’s only now, at just after 8.30 pm, that the dining room has become lively and full.

“We are often here until after midnight,” Jane says. “A lot of our customers don’t start eating their maincourses until after 10 pm.”

Banana tart tatin and Chocolate brulee

This time, both of our desserts win the best presentation award. My mum’s banana tart tatin is presented in the centre of a square white plate. To the right is a small pouring pot of butterscotch sauce and to the left is a neat scoop of vanilla ice cream. It’s a very minimalist looking dessert that has big chunks of banana in it. My mum assures me it tastes as good as it looks – and we are told that this dessert is the most popular.

My chocolate brulee is presented in a shot glass. There is one scoop of milk chocolate ice cream to the right of this brulee and a small, rectangular chunk of chocolate brownie to the left. The brownie is surrounded by two piped clusters of white chocolate mousse, which look like meringues. It is the first time that I have tasted chocolate brulee and it will not be my last. The combination of burnt sugar topping and creamy chocolate brulee is heavenly.

Coffee and Petit Fours

We finish our meal with an Americano and a cafe latte, served with homemade petit fours – two chunks of rocky road cake, two strips of chocolate chip biscotti and two after eight circles. It’s a nice final touch to this five course feast and, needles to say, the petit fours do not last as long as the coffee.

I don’t like to use the words perfect or amazing in my restaurant reviews because restaurants are like people – they are full of flaws if you look hard enough. But, I like to focus on the positives and not the negatives because I know how hard it is to make restaurants work – both my parents are restaurateurs.

So, to give credit where credit is due, I can honestly say that The Stockbridge Restaurant is as near to perfect as any restaurant can hope to be. The location is safe and interesting – and only a ten to fifteen minute walk from Edinburgh’s famous Princes street and Royal Mile. The architecture is beautiful and the dining room is intimate. The décor sets the scene for an evening of indulgence and relaxation and the staff are eager to please without being intrusive. The extensive list of Scottish Gins on offer is a nice touch. The chef has excellent presentation skills and the food is a work of art whilst also tasting homely. The local produce and seasonal dishes make you feel proud to be Scottish and the end of evening bill will not make you feel guilty or shocked.

I give The Stockbridge Restaurant 9 out of 10. And, if they added a 100% vegetarian course to the A La Carte maincourse menu and fixed the left hand toilet door in the Ladies, I would give it 10 out of 10. This restaurant is as good as it gets and is not to be missed on your next night out in Edinburgh. It’s a family run restaurant for locals and tourists alike.


Our bill:

1 x 250 ml glass of Viognier £7.75

1 x 250 ml glass of Sauvignon Blanc £9.30

1 x partridge starter £7.95

1 x trio of cheese starter £7.95

1 x venison loin with venison pie £24.95

1 x halibut £20.95

1 x chocolate crème brulee with chocolate brownie £6.95

1 x banana tart tatin £6.95

2 x coffee and petit fours £3.00 to £3.75 each

Total: £99.50 for a five-course meal for two including wine and coffees

 

Contact details:
54 St Stephen Street
EdinburghEH3 5AL

Phone: 0131 226 6766
Email: jane@thestockbridgerestaurant.co.uk

Website: http://www.thestockbridgerestaurant.co.uk/

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Bobby’s Rock ‘n Roll Bruch, House of Ho | Restaurant Review

Soho’s House of Ho (try saying that after you’ve had a few of their cocktails) is a Vietnamese restaurant serving up an unlimited brunch every Sunday called Bobby’s Rock ‘n Roll Brunch. The words ‘unlimited’ and ‘brunch’ are favourites of mine so I went down to check it out.

The restaurant itself has a light and airy industrial feel with touches of Eastern charm. It blends modernity and traditionalism seamlessly and this approach is reflected in the menu.

We began our brunch with sweet and refreshing lychee cocktails and some unfortunately bland edamame. Until this point I genuinely didn’t think it was possible to get edamame wrong – it’s just beans.

Luckily, that was pretty much the only criticism I have of the entire experience. And when your main issue is bland edamame then you know you’re doing something right.

Duck Pho Cuon

Duck Pho Cuon

As part of the ‘unlimited’ brunch you are allowed to choose from a selection of small plates to start with. The highlights of these were the duck pho cuon and the 7 spice marinated squid. The duck came in soft rolls with a coating of crispy onions which was a great texture combination and was served with a spicy sauce that added just the right amount of kick. There was also a mushroom version of this dish that was perfectly fine but a little underwhelming in comparison. Both my colleague and I agreed that the fried squid was the best that we had ever tasted; it was marinated in the perfect combination and amount of spices.

Other dishes worth trying include the chili glazed chicken wings which came in a smoky, spicy, sticky sauce (another one to try saying after a few drinks) and the chicken pomelo salad which was a light and refreshing dish that helped combat the sheer amount of meat and carbs in the others (that’s not a complaint – they are excellent food groups).

Apple-Smoked Pork Belly

Apple-Smoked Pork Belly

For our main courses we had the apple-smoked pork belly and the ‘shakin’ beef. Wow. Just wow. The pork is cooked for 36 hours and you could cut through the fat on top of it like butter. I don’t even like pork and I enjoyed this dish immensely. The beef is cooked for 30 seconds at 400 degrees and was beautifully tender. I honestly can’t choose between the two dishes – if possible, try them both.

 

The meal ended with an expertly cooked crème brulee but by this point I think I was too stuffed to fully appreciate it. I was also very drunk. Because that’s the really good thing about this meal – the alcohol is unlimited too. We were knocking back Proseccos and cocktails like nobody’s business. If that doesn’t convince you that this brunch is excellent value then I don’t know what will.

So get yourself down to House of Ho this Sunday. It won’t kill your wallet but it will break your belt.

 

 

Hakkasan Golden Week Restaurant Review

Hakkasan is one of the most happening places in London. This was abundantly obvious when we went to review it. It was packed out on a Tuesday night, filled with the great and good of London. When I went to the bathroom, I washed my hands next to three supermodels. The decor is stunning and everything about Hakkasan is glamourous and exciting.

We went to review the Golden Week, which celebrates the annual Chinese holiday Golden Week which is between the 29th September and 12th October. To mark Golden Week, the Michelin-starred restaurants feature limited edition authentic à la carte and set menus. In addition, guests who dine on the specialty menu will receive an exclusive gift in celebration of the holiday.

 

Golden Week is considered to be China’s biggest annual national holiday, spanning seven days in October where all workers are given three days of paid time off. Consequently it is a popular period of time when the Chinese travel significantly around the world to experience luxury offerings. Traditionally Golden Week takes place between 1st and 7th October, however Hakkasan will be offering the dedicated menus for a longer period of time to accommodate all travellers.

 

Executive Chef Tong of Hakkasan has created menus to cater specifically to traditional Chinese tastes. The set menu is £88.88 per person – celebrating the traditionally auspicious number 8 – and includes Peking duck with caviar; Dim sum platter; Spicy Szechuan rib-eye beef with enoki mushroom; Hakka stew pork belly; fried rice with diced abalone, and to finish, deep-fried sesame balls with green tea and peach. Golden Week à la carte menu includes equally authentic Chinese fare, such as Double boiled ginseng and Chinese herb soup with sea whelk; Braised claypot-cooked seabass and Fried tofu with spinach and seafood. A box containing hand-made golden Champagne and popping candy macarons are given at the end of the meal for each guest to take home as a gift.

To ensure the experience in the restaurants is enjoyable and efficient, Hakkasan has Mandarin-speaking staff on-site and in reservations, and accepts China Union Pay, the Chinese credit card of choice. Menus and websites will be Mandarin translated and staff will be fully trained in Chinese etiquette.

 

In addition to London, several Hakkasan restaurants around the world including Beverly Hills, Las Vegas, New York, San Francisco and Shanghai will also be celebrating Golden Week with exclusive menus in order to provide the experience to Chinese nationals who are travelling elsewhere. Each location’s menu will vary and offer a slightly different twist tailored to each location.

We started off by ordering mocktails. I have a Coco Passion and my colleague has a Kowloon Cooler. Both are delicious. Our starters come and we are very impressed. Presentation is amazing, service is excellent and we are already impressed before even trying anything.

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The food is amazing, as you would expect. Peking duck with caviar and a Dim sum platter. It is also unique. The duck is very special, not served like your usual duck, it is very neat and the pancake and duck is all together, sauce on the side with caviar on top. It is amazing. The dum sum platter is truly wonderful. These are the best dim sum we have ever had. Just exceptional.

When our mains arrive it really is something. The table really is not big enough: Huge Shrimp which is perfectly cooked, delicious Pak Choi, perfect Spicy Szechuan rib-eye beef with enoki mushroom; an amazing Roasted crispy chicken with wild mushroom in oyster sauce: Braised whole sea bass in clay pot which is perfectly cooked, the sauce is amazing and the fish is tender; Hakka stew pork belly which is just right; fried rice with diced abalone which is a particular favourite: creamy and in a delicious sauce. It is a feast and a rather superb one. The food is outstanding.

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To finish we have deep-fried sesame balls with green tea and peach. These are small and delicious. Perfect to end the meal. The waitress tells me Hakkasan has a lot of regular customers and they really love it when something like Golden Week happens as they get to try something different.

As we are leaving we are handed a beautiful gift bag which has some delicious macaroons inside. We have them the next day as we are so full. Hakkasan is an amazing restaurant, one of the best in London. We will definitely be back.

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Hakkasan Mayfair
Address: 17 Bruton St, London W1J 6QB
Phone:020 7907 1888
Hours: Open today · 12:00 pm – 12:30 am

http://hakkasan.com

 

 

Kingham Plough Review

Anyone who watched The Great British Menu couldn’t have failed to notice that fish course winner Emily Watkins kept apologising. For everything, really. So when the lights in the restaurant of The Kingham Plough dipped and danced a little it should have been no surprise to see Emily appear and apologise; they were new – the bulbs were too bright – she wanted to get them right.

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When you own a pub restaurant, wanting everything to be perfect is no bad thing.

The Kingham Plough is a part of a Cotswold stone terrace about 15 minutes’ drive from Stow on the Wold and it’s probably only a little fanciful to say that the warmth of the sun on the stone extends inside the building as well. The young staff are friendly and helpful, and while interior designers have clearly been at work the look and feel of a village pub has been retained. The walls are decorated with local art (for sale) and the carefully mismatched furniture oozes rural chic. Not to mention comfort.

We ate in the restaurant although a full range of bar snacks (including deliciously retro pints of prawns and just plain delicious homemade pork pies) are available. Much has been made in other reviews of the sous vide cooking technique Watkins prefers, but to be honest, if we hadn’t been told, we wouldn’t have noticed. And anyway, I’m a great believer in letting the food speak for itself.

My starter was a rabbit sausage, resting on an oblong of pea puree and sharing the plate with a most attractive salad which tasted crisp, fresh and as good as it looked. My husband opted for the sea trout tartare which was served in a tower topped with an egg yolk. Before breaking the yolk he burrowed out a little from the bottom of the stack for me and that was lovely too.

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We had wanted a wine which would take us through all three courses and here the young staff did let the Kingham Plough down slightly by recommending a bottle which really wasn’t appropriate, simply because it was popular. So we fell back on our own knowledge (time to fess up that my husband has certificates in this sort of thing and does spend some of his business life in the wine trade) and chose a more than acceptable bottle of Beaune which didn’t break the bank.

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Although I am not a vegetarian (clearly, given the way I devoured the rabbit sausage) I decided on a beetroot soufflé with local goat cheese for my main course. I love beetroot and I love goat cheese and I certainly wasn’t disappointed by the soft and fluffy soufflé which perfectly combined them. Meanwhile my better half went for the pork wellington; a tender nugget of meat encased in homemade ‘hodge podge’ aka black pudding and the thinnest of thin sheets of pastry. I am told it was fantastic. But I didn’t get to try.

Wild Sea Trout tartare Cheese board

As ever, we were lured by the cheese; a selection from nine local cheeses – or all of them to share for £19. This really was a no-brainer and they came spread out along a wooden board with generous piles of homemade oatcakes, hazelnut fruit bread, celery and apple jelly. There was a modicum of confusion over which cheese was which – the blushing waitress told us Emily had prepared the board and they were always in the right order – she just wasn’t sure what the order was. But it didn’t matter. They were all quirky and original and it was the highlight of our meal taking our time over them and finishing off the Beaune.

The highlight of the meal; but not the highlight of our stay. We had booked a room for the night (clean, cosy, quiet and comfortable) which meant we were having breakfast. I am not a huge fan of the full English – give me a skinny latte and something chocolaty any day – but this time I was tempted. And besides, I hadn’t got my hands on any of the hodge podge pudding the night before.

As it happened, for me the black pudding was not the star of the show. Mainly because it had a great deal of competition. Homemade baked beans, for a start – made with real tomatoes, wonderfully seasoned. Thick, crispy bacon and mushrooms which tasted as though they had been picked from the fields just hours before. Proper leaf tea. And, best of all, a little skillet of drop scones (scotch pancakes, if you prefer), warm from the grill, just begging to be drizzled with honey.

Whether it was in revenge for the pork wellington, or just pure gluttony, I scoffed the lot.

Find out more about The Kingham Plough at www.thekinghamplough.co.uk

 

 

Yauatcha Restaurant Review | Celebrating 10 Years

With a rainbow of macaron’s elegantly displayed in the restaurant window, Yauatcha immediately catches your eye and invites you in to sample the patisserie-come- Chinese dishes.

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We were led downstairs to the basement by a lady in red, where we were pleasantly surprised by the buzz of diners, faces lit by the centre-piece of the room – the horizontal fish tank running the length of the bar.

 

We were greeted by numerous servers and told that as part of Yauatcha’s 10th anniversary in Soho, we would be served secret off-menu items which would only be disclosed once the dishes came to our table.

 

The first dishes arrived in steaming bamboo baskets; a trilogy of dumplings and a prawn and bean curd cheung fun saddled our table too.

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The wild fungus and pomegranate dumpling was squidgy and earthy and the fruit seed added a pleasant drop of sweetness to the palette.

 

Not being a huge fan of lychee, nonetheless, the flakes of the scallop puff oozed with freshness as the dry texture of pastry was drenched with the juices of the tropical grape-like fruit.

 

Unusually green, the seared spicy lamb and fig was the last dumpling to pass my lips. The meaty flavour of lamb was subtly mixed with the sweeter fig flavour, creating a unique explosion of flavours.

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But the real moment of heaven was with the prawn and bean curd cheung fun drizzled in soy sauce.

 

A firm favourite with Yauatcha diners, it’s easy to see why. Encased in a soft pasta-like shell (the bean curd), it protectively lined the plump, slightly salty prawns and contrasted with the crispy fragments separating the different textures.

 

For mains, we shared the Kung pao chicken with cashew nut and stir fry rib eye beef in black bean sauce.

 

The beef sauce gently pricked our throats with spice as we edged closer to the bottom of the plate. The peppers were crispy and charred with a smoky flavour and the chicken was tender with hints of garlic and onion.

 

For dessert, my partner opted for the cheesecake with lemon, blueberry and graham cracker which was impressively stacked and burst with zesty tangs of citrus.

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I plumped for the apricot chocolate, jaconde sponge, curd, chocolate cremaux and chiboust. Again it was impeccably presented and the sweet chocolate and apricot was interspersed with spoonfuls of refreshing sour sorbet.

 

We spent a pleasant evening at Yauatcha, part of the Hakkasan group which includes HKK in Shoreditch, and I loved the unique way dishes were served. The waiting staff are composed of commis in black uniform and serving staff in white.

 

The commis carry the dishes to the table and the serving staff quickly appear by their side ready to present each plate with a complete description to the diner. To me, this seemed like an eloquent game of chess; each time black edged towards the target, the white pawn would quickly follow suit.

 

My only niggle is the seating; after a few hours sitting on the uber-funky but backless sofa, I did feel like I needed a bit more support, but overall, a fantastic experience.

 

Next time we’ll be nipping in for macarons and a cocktail, turning the Chinese dining experience into a modern European affair in Soho.

 

15-17 Broadwick Street, London, W1F 0DL. Email reservations@yauatcha.com

 

 

Moshi Moshi Restaurant Review

I love Asian food and was quite excited when we got invited to review Moshi Moshi. It was their 20th anniversary, an impressive achievement in London where restaurants can struggle.

20 years ago, Caroline Bennett brought the first Japanese kaiten (conveyor belt) restaurant to the UK and opened in Liverpool Street Station to an astounded and hugely positive reception from critics and diners. It is fair to say that most Londoners had never seen anything like it. Caroline went on to pioneer the ideals of good sushi in the UK and democratised this beautiful Japanese cuisine which 20 years on, has become ubiquitous with the UK dining scene.

Our initial reaction was that the venue was beautiful. Very trendy and in a great location. Where we sat we could watch the trains come and go. The chairs are also very comfortable. After we took our seats we ordered some Prosecco Brut, Terra Di Sant’Alberto NV Italy Bottle. This was very good Prosecco and was a great start to our meal.

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For our starter we had Gyoza dumplings, Organic prawn tempura and Cornish crab & avocado sushi. These were all just stunning and came with wonderful sauces. The prawns were nice and juicy. The batter was perfect and crispy: Fresh & plump. The dumplings were amazing and I loved the sauce they came in. The sushi was as amazing as expected.

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Moshi Moshi Restaurant Reviewcola

For our mains we had Rib eye steak teriyaki: 21 day hung Suffolk grass fed beef, sweet potato chips, seasonal greens and Cornish kabayaki: the sustainable answer to unagi eel teriyaki. The steak is very good, it is little pieces rather than a huge chunk of meat. The chips were also amazing and very unique as they were very thin. The seasonal greens were good and the sauce was brilliant but I would have liked just a little more. Not much, just a little.

My colleague had the eel and said she would have liked it to have been softer and more tender. This could just be the Japanese way of cooking it however. The sauce was good, sweet and tangy as expected, but there was not enough of it and she ended up putting some soy sauce on her meal. So, more sauce!

After our prosecco we had some Fentimans Curiosity Cola. We had never had it before and it was brilliant- like a fizzy cola bottle.

For our dessert we had the Dessert Platter.

This included Lemon Panna Cotta, Matcha and Black Sesame Ice-Cream and some Mochi, which is a traditional delicacy from Japan.

Moshi Moshi Restaurant Reviewdessert

The dessert was very different from our usual desserts and was a lot less sweet. The mochi was tasty and interesting. Lots of coconut and a little bit chocolaty. The panna cotta was good, very sweet. The ice cream was interesting: we loved the sesame side but the matcha tea ice cream was too bitter for our taste. It was very unique though and if you love green tea, you would love it.

We liked the food at Moshi Moshi. It was very good and the location and venue were also great. Prices are reasonable. Their sushi is also great and should definitely be tried.

MOSHI MOSHI
Unit 24, Liverpool Street Station, London EC2M 7QH www.moshimoshi.co.uk
Tel: 020 7247 3227
Email: liverpoolstreet@moshimoshi.co.uk
Monday to Friday
11.30am – 10pm last orders Monday to Friday

 

 

Rosso, Manchester | Restaurant Review

Last week I finally managed to visit Rosso, an Italian restaurant in Manchester that I haven’t stopped hearing about lately. It turns out that it’s with good reason – Rosso is a tasteful, inventive restaurant that’s clearly had a lot of thought put into both the food and the overall experience from the décor to the friendly, informative staff.

As is always the best way, my colleague and I began our evening with cocktails. I had the Old Fashioned which was smooth and well mixed. My colleague’s Bramble was a sweet and refreshing combination of gin and winter fruits.

Having whetted our appetites, we ate a trio of starters. To begin with we had seared king scallops with crisp pork belly and an apple and cider purée. The scallops were light but flavourful and were perfectly complemented by the apple. This was followed by a mixed vegetable antipasti platter. It was an excellent selection of true Italian delicacies and was our favourite of the starters. Particular praise must go to the selection of cheeses which had mature and confident flavours. Our final starter was orzo with sweet potato and char-grilled tuna steak. The steak was perfectly cooked and its saltiness was deliciously matched with the sweetness of the orzo.

Char-grilled tuna steak with orzo

For the main course we once again split three dishes; a decision that I will never regret but that will have permanently effected my waistline. First up was a home-made mushroom ravioli of the highest quality. It had an intense, rich mushroom flavour that was offset nicely by the sauce. This was followed by goose served over balsamic roasted plums with a hint of bitter chocolate. An appetising combination on paper, it sadly failed to live up to its promise. My colleague and I agreed that the problem with it, if we’re totally honest, is that it was a perfectly average dish in a restaurant of culinary delights. There was nothing particularly wrong with it, there was just nothing especially right about it either.

Which brings me on to a dish that deserves its own paragraph – the rack of lamb in a pistachio crust with a rosemary and treacle jus. Simply put, it was genius. The best dishes have bold and unexpected flavour combinations and this one has them in abundance. If you do visit Rosso I’d highly recommend that you order it.

Rack of lamb

To go with our food we had a Primitivo Dolinci from the organic red wine selection, a nice addition to the wine menu. It had an excellent nose and a subtle, fruity taste that was not too dry. I’m not normally a red wine drinker but I found it to be quite pleasant and a good match for our food.

Finally, my colleague had a gooseberry cheesecake that was a little bland, if technically well made. It was a good cheesecake, it just wasn’t a very good gooseberry cheesecake.

I had a chocolate tower made with valrhona chocolate (a particular favourite of mine) and layers of assorted raspberry accompaniments. Dark chocolate and raspberry is a classic combination and one that never fails to please me. I thought I was full before this dessert arrived but all notion of that disappeared after my first bite. Thank God for that extra pudding stomach we are all born with.

Chocolate stack

As I’m sure you’ve gathered by now, I highly recommend Rosso. I think my colleague summed it up best when he said “It’s the sort of place I’d propose in”. If you’re looking for a restaurant for a special occasion or to really impress someone then Rosso is ideal.