SUNDAY SCENE: LYNNE SHELBY ON HER FAVOURITE SCENE FROM ROME FOR THE SUMMER

Kate Harper, the heroine of my new book, Rome For the Summer, has always loved the painting that has hung in her parents’ dining room for years, never suspecting that it is worth a fortune – until her art dealer boyfriend cheats her family out of the proceeds of the painting’s sale, leaving her devastated.

Kate discovers that, two hundred years ago, the girl in the painting, Charlotte Browne, ran off to Rome with the artist who painted her portrait. He abandoned her, but her eventual fate is unknown. Hoping to uncover the mystery of what happened to Charlotte, Kate seizes the chance of a summer job in Rome, where she strikes up a friendship with artist Jamie Taylor . . .

One of my favourite scenes in the book, takes place on Kate’s first day in the city, when Jamie takes her to see the Trevi Fountain, leading her through ‘a maze of streets’ narrow enough for her ‘to wonder how the cars parked along their length could possibly have driven down them.’ Passing apartments with flowers tumbling from their tiny balconies, restaurants with tables outside on the pavement, fruit stalls, ‘and street vendors selling anything from red roses to dubious leather handbags,’ they round a corner into bright sunlight and Kate hears the sound of rushing water . . .

‘Oh – there it is!’ I exclaimed. There in front of me was the famous Trevi Fountain, its white marble statues glowing in the late afternoon sun, water splashing down into a turquoise pool, the steps surrounding it packed with tourists, most of them holding up camera phones. It was a scene familiar to me from every movie set in Rome that I’d ever watched, and yet it took my breath away.

Writing this scene through the eyes of a character who has never visited Rome before bought back memories of my first visit to the city – my reaction on seeing sites like the Trevi Fountain, the Colosseum or the view from the Palatine Hill for the first time, was very similar to Kate’s!

The scene is also the first time Jamie, who spotted Kate sketching on the Spanish Steps earlier in the day, offers to help her improve her painting and drawing technique.

I looked again at the fountain with its statues of a man and two galloping horses set against a backdrop of a palace façade, and knew that I didn’t have the skill to capture it on paper.
‘I could never draw something like that,’ I said.
Jamie raised his eyebrows. ‘You don’t know that.’
‘Believe me, I do,’ I said. ‘I’m no good at drawing people or horses, even if they’re made of marble.’
‘I could help you draw them,’ he said, ‘if you’d like me too.’
He smiled encouragingly, and somehow, even although I felt sure he would be wasting his time, I found myself nodding my head.

Kate’s drawing of the fountain turns out a lot better than she expected, Jamie’s encouragement helping her find the confidence that she lacks to believe that she can actually draw, foreshadowing the way her summer in Rome will lead to her finding the confidence to pursue her dreams and ambitions in other areas of her life as well.

I very much enjoyed writing this scene and giving my heroine a great first day in the Eternal City. As Jamie says to her, at the end of the chapter, as they share a bottle of wine and a pizza at a pavement café: ‘Benvenuti a Roma, Kate.’

 

www.lynneshelby.com

 

 

 

A Weekend In Rome: Fall For The The Eternal City In 48 Hours

by Holly Thomas. All images copyright Holly Thomas [Twitter, Instagram: @HolstaT]

 

Rome might not have been built in a day, but with enough pizza bianca under your belt you can sure fall for it in one. Here are a few unmissables you should squeeze in between slices…

The Walk up the Via dei Fori Imperiali

[Make this your route to the Colloseum, and in ten minutes you’ll see enough of Ancient Rome to make your trip worthwhile]

Start early at the Piazza Venezia. Avoid the overpriced ice cream (tends to be better when found down a side street), and start down the Via dei Fori. On your right you’ll pass the Altar of the Fatherland, which looms massively over the square, a fantastic titan-scale monument honouring the city’s fallen soldiers.

Rome, travel writing, travel, tourism, Colosseum, Italy, explore, wanderlust, city break, tour, history, food

Rome, travel writing, travel, tourism, Colosseum, Italy, explore, wanderlust, city break, tour, history, food

Trot a little further and on your left, you’ll see the Foro di Augusto, the ruins of a forum which once served both as a temple to Mars, and space for legal proceedings. It’s classic Ancient Rome, slick efficiency coupled with due deference to conquest. If it’s dry, you can head down the steps below street level and wander through the remains.

Rome, travel writing, travel, tourism, Colosseum, Italy, explore, wanderlust, city break, tour, history, food

[I never cease to be impressed by the gumption of national heritage sites which allow this – tourist footfall must be eroding the SHIT out of everything, surely?]

A little further up on your right, past the Julius Caesar statue, you’ll see the Roman Forum. It’s architectural excavation on a huge scale – like a valley of ruins overlooked on all sides by 2000-year-old temples, government buildings, and palaces. Get a guide to explain all this to you properly (on which more later).

Rome, travel writing, travel, tourism, Colosseum, Italy, explore, wanderlust, city break, tour, history, food

Next on your right is the beautiful Basilica SS Cosma e Damiano. A very lovely building, but by this point you’ll be having trouble tearing your eyes away from the main event…

The Colosseum

It’s staggering, no hyperbole. This was my favourite thing in the city. See the Colloseum, and you’ll understand why the Romans thought so very much of themselves for 500 years. Even beyond the scale and majesty of the building itself, it encapsulates an idea of Rome (my apologies to Ridley Scott), that no number of churches can match. It’s brutal, imperial, clever, showbusiness, business business, it’s everything you want it to be.

Rome, travel writing, travel, tourism, Colosseum, Italy, explore, wanderlust, city break, tour, history, food

Book a tour

Give yourself up to the socks and sandals legions. Ruins are very lovely to look at, but they take on such greater significance when someone explains what exactly you’re seeing, and this is history. A good guide can tell you how the cunning Romans drained their valley-straddling city, where the centre mile is (all roads lead to…), where the citizens had to apply for planning permission, and how one vestal “virgin” evaded being buried alive when she discovered she was pregnant. Go to the top of the hill where the orange trees grow for a stunning panoramic view of the old city, and don’t be shy to ask your guide to pause while you take the pictures it deserves.

Rome, travel writing, travel, tourism, Colosseum, Italy, explore, wanderlust, city break, tour, history, food

Rome, travel writing, travel, tourism, Colosseum, Italy, explore, wanderlust, city break, tour, history, food

Make sure that your tour includes both the under-stage level of the colosseum and the third tier. It’s a little more expensive, but a worthwhile education. Stand on the lights in the tunnels and imagine yourself one of hundreds of slaves preparing hundreds of desperate, dangerous animals for their moment in the spotlight. Then when you’ve climbed to the top, you can better imagine the view of the gladiators – the most expensive beasts in the Colosseum – making their bloody names on the stage.

Rome, travel writing, travel, tourism, Colosseum, Italy, explore, wanderlust, city break, tour, history, food

Rome, travel writing, travel, tourism, Colosseum, Italy, explore, wanderlust, city break, tour, history, food

Go to lunch at Al Cardello, which is tucked away behind the guide office. It’s small and sweet, with the modest seating open onto the kitchen. Diners speak softly to preserve the peace just a stone’s throw away from the busiest tourist area in the city. It helps that the food (the traditional menu you’ll see everywhere – grilled vegetables, pesce, carne, pasta) is prepared with great care, and quite delicious enough to command your full attention.

Rome, travel writing, travel, tourism, Colosseum, Italy, explore, wanderlust, city break, tour, history, food

After eating, you can nip around the corner to see Michelangelo’s Moses at Basilica di San Pietro in Vincoli.

Take a wander towards the Spanish Steps. If you’re parched for green space, continue beyond the steps and into the park behind. Aim yourself at the Temple of Asceplius for photos opps. Be sure to get back to the top of the steps in time for sunset, though…

The Vatican Museums & Sistine Chapel

Well, obviously, but might as well if you’re in the neighbourhood, right? It’s €16 for the museum and chapel. Give it a good half day – if you were to attempt to look at everything in the Vatican you’d be camping there a month, but a few hours will give you a good sense of the place, and get you comfortably to saturation point on the fresco-and-sculpture front.

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Of course, you’ll also drop into The Basilica of St Paul. If you’d rather do so without buying the full Vatican ticket, you can enter via the Roman square, but get their early (before eight) to avoid the staggering queue. Bear in mind that the Pope likes to swing by without forewarning sometimes, and when he does, the church is closed to the public.

If you have some time to kill…

… and are in the mood for a little educational Schadenfreude, head to the Museo Criminologico. This former prison now houses the most satisfyingly macabre collection you could wish to lose an hour or so gawping at. Observe, the spiked iron collar placed on “chattering” women in the seventeenth century! The skeleton of some poor bastard left to die suspended in a metal cage! The torture seat which had a fire lit underneath! I loved every minute in this place.

Italian Festival – Come With Me & Meet Bafana By Amanda Brake, Frost’s Le Marche correspondent

6th January Italian Festival – Come with me and meet Bafana.  By Amanda Brake, Frost’s Le Marche correspondent.

photo1Italy

We got up early on this glorious morning to do our normal hour of chopping wood for the fires. We have two fires.  One heats the radiators, the other heats the hot water and is situated in the centre of our house keeping us warm. Our chopping and other chores finished, we relaxed, seduced by the warmth into staying inside. By mid-afternoon it really was time for us to kit up, and find where Bafana may be flying. But hang on, we were all feeling too cosy to adventure out into the cold, so stayed put for yet half hour.

Finally, shaking off our reluctance, we hurried into coats and boots, and we set off for our small town of Amandola . By the time we arrived things were just about getting started; in fact witches were everywhere.

phto2italy

There were many activities: balloon blowing, drawing for the children who created many and varied pictures of Bafana and over it all,  music played. The walk had warmed us and we were all in the party mood as the atmosphere became more and more lively. As well as the games, which had begun for the kids, many of the girls had dressed as Befana,  the witch.

It was a shame our boys were too shy to join at first but as more arrived and joined in the festivities so did they.  Toys and sweets were finally given to all the children, and the band played their music into the night until reluctantly, we headed home.

3italySo what is this festival? In Italy the festival is known as La Befana after the legendary old woman who delivers gifts on her broomstick. She is said to visit children on the eve of January 6 to fill their socks with sweets and presents if they have been good or a lump of coal or dark candy if they have been bad.

4italyThere are many versions. In Milan, authorities set up what they touted as the world’s longest Epiphany stocking – two kilometres long, it was made with thread derived from recycled bottles in the colours of this year’s world’s fair, Milan Expo 2015.

In Venice, a regatta is held in the Grand Canal with rowers dressed up as old women competing for best costume.
In Rome’s Piazza Navona, the holiday is focused on children with activities aimed at kids and the arrival of the three kings on horseback.
In the seafaring port city of Genoa, the Befana arrives on a water scooter, and Befana divers deposit a crown on the sea floor near Gallinara Island. Florence celebrates with a procession down the Arno River by 100 vessels from the city’s rowing club, while in Naples fire fighters organize a feast for children that also taught them about fire safety. In the southern city of Brindisi, the Hellenic Community carries out a traditional blessing of the port.

We look forward to next year’s local Bafana, at which we will meet our friends, and welcome in the New Year.  I do hope that 2015 is a good one for all Frost readers.

 

 

Where did the Lottery come from?

The lottery games of today are varied and incredibly numerous, offering a near-endless range of gameplay options, risk:reward ratios and odds of winning. Some people fancy their chances playing online on sites like Coral, whilst others prefer to yell and groan along to the TV. The rules and the mediums differ, but the essence of the game is just about the same everywhere.

 

Lotteries are now played in almost all countries throughout the world, from Ireland to Italy, Australia to the United States of America, but where did the game come from in the first place?

 

The British Isles?

Whilst it may be tempting to search close to home to begin with, the birthplace of lottery games is almost undoubtedly elsewhere on the world map. Perhaps the two best known lottery draws from this part of the world are the nationally televised UK National Lottery – founded in the mid-nineties – and the Irish Lotto, which began in the 1980s. Whilst lottery games undoubtedly arrived in the UK in some form much earlier, the roots of the lottery actually extend far deeper into the past…

 

The Italian Quarter?

Italian Lotteries’ were widespread throughout Italian-American neighbourhoods of the USA around the turn of the 20th Century. The link between Italy and lotteries seems a particularly solid one – the nation’s own national draw SuperEnalotto has existed in some form or other for over half a century – and, as our next destination proves, it goes far further back in time.

 

Ancient Rome

Whenever you’re in doubt as to where something useful in modern society comes from, there’s a fairly strong chance that the place of origin was ancient Rome. The Romans gave us everything from viaducts to vomitoriums (we still have those, right?) and are often spoken of as the progenitors of civilisation as we know it. Hard as it may be to believe it, the Romans played the lottery too, in a range of variants from dinner party games to area-wide fund-raising lotteries not altogether dissimilar from those seen today!

 

China

Everyone knows that every great genius steals their ideas from somebody else. If the Romans were those great geniuses, then maybe the ancient Chinese were that somebody else. The earliest evidence of lottery style gaming in China comes from around 200BC, in the form of kendo slips. Remarkably, it is believed that the money raised through the game was used to help fund the construction of the Great Wall of China! Could it be that we’ve been playing the lottery since the dawn of civilisation? Written evidence suggests that the Chinese were doing so hundreds upon hundreds of years before those kendo slips were made!

 

The Top 5 City Breaks

image010newyorkIf you’re bored of the usual beach holidays and crave a little more culture on your well-earned break then try a city break. Perfect for shorter holidays city breaks are a great way to get away from your everyday life and truly indulge. In most cases you’re only a short flight away from a memorable and meaningful break. So, what are you waiting for? All you need to do now is choose your destination and took make life a little easier we’ve listed our top 5 favourites.

 

New York

A firm favourite, especially around Christmas, New York is the ideal break for the super consumer. Shopping until you drop is easy in this bustling city but make sure you leave time for sightseeing and delving into the Big Apple’s dazzling nightlife. All of the major attractions will be calling your name the moment your feet land on New York concrete from Time Square and The Statue of Liberty to Central Park and the Empire State Building. Film buffs should head to the famous Film Forum and there’s plenty more culture to pack into your trip in the form of theatre trips and museum visits. All this activity should make you pretty hungry but there’s no chance of starving in this city, indulge in your own version of Man versus Food and scoff as much fine cuisine and famous fast food as you can.

By the time you leave, we guarantee you’ll be singing this city’s praises, just like Frank Sinatra.

 

Dubai

For the ultimate VIP city break that combines beaches with culture, all tied together in a concrete jungle, Dubai is the perfect choice. Dubai’s skyline is ever changing and whilst you’re there you should drink in as much of its development as possible and one infamous part of that skyline is the Burj Al Arab. Check this world famous hotel out for yourself to see if it really does deserve its 7 star rating. By day you can sip refreshing drinks by the pool or sink your toes into warm sands and when night falls you can eat at world-class restaurants and dance until dawn at one of the city’s famous clubs. If you feel like you need a break from the glitz and glamour rent a car and hit the road to Abu Dhabi, Dubai’s calmer relative.

Once a humble fishing village Dubai is now a must-see metropolitan city, with great beaches thrown in for free.

 

Dublin

Fancy a tipple? Then head to Dubai! The famous home of Guinness is a hive of activity and a firm favourite for large groups. The social scene begins right from the moment you wake up with trips to The Guinness Brewery that include a full tour and a glass of the famous black stuff. Dublin’s attractions are all easily accessible on foot and a stroll through Temple Bar is punctuated with bars and souvenir shops but if you want to do something a little different, head to Dublin’s Leprechaun Museum.

 

Amsterdam

Well know for both its beauty and its risqué darker side, Amsterdam will definitely leave you open-mouthed. Do as the Dutch do and hire a bike to cycle along this city’s winding canals and onto it’s cultural hot spots including the Van Gogh Museum and the Albert Cuyup outdoor market or to one of the many cafés.

Hop onto a canal boat to see the city from the water and delve into a slice of history by visiting the house of Anne Frank. If you’re feeling a little racy, head to the famous Red Light District to take a sneak peek at another world, but keep your wits about you!

 

Rome

The Eternal City is another firm favourite among tourists, especially couples. Rome is dripping with history and culture with plenty to tick off on your ‘must-see’ list. Make like Russell Crowe’s character from Gladiator and visit the well-known landmark, the Colosseum where you can learn about the city’s battles.

For a bit of popular culture, head to the Vatican to see if you can catch a glimpse of the newest Pope and the staring up at the celiling of the Sistine Chapel is well worth a sore neck!

When you have had your fill of history, fill your belly at one of the city’s many piazzas, squares brimming with shops and authentic dishes to try.