In Search of the Past – A visit to the Somme Part 5 by Penny Gerrard

Lieutenant Colonel Harry Vivian Robert Hodson

The Gerrards and the Hodsons had completed a moving but successful first day travelling round the Somme and as our schedule only allowed us two days in the battlefield area we were up and about early on our second day, ready to find another one of Richard’s family members – this time his grandfather Harry Vivian Robert Hodson – Lieutenant Colonel of the North Staffordshire Regiment.  He was second in command of the 15 Royal Welsh Fusiliers which landed in France in January 2016 and, after a period of training, deployed in trenches in the area of Laventie.

In Search of the Past – A visit to the Somme Part 5 by Penny Gerrard1 Mametz Wood across the field of Oil Seed Rape

Our first destination of the morning was the infamous Mametz Wood which stands much as it always did in the middle of open rolling countryside.   What made it very different from how it would have looked on the day of the attack was the sea of yellow oil seed rape in which the wood now sat.    Then it would probably have been a sea of mud.  We walked up to the amazing red dragon memorial to the 15 Royal Welsh Fusiliers which sits on the small hill over which the battalion climbed before descending into the narrow flat area leading across to the wood.

In Search of the Past – A visit to the Somme Part 5 by Penny Gerrard2 The Red Dragon Memorial to the 15 Royal Welsh Fusiliers

The battalion took part in the attack on the wood as part of the Somme offensive, in the face of fire from both sides of the valley and from the heavily fortified wood.    Even walking across the field towards the wood through the golden yellow flowers on a sunny early summer morning with birds singing all around us, I could still feel the atmosphere of that place. Standing where I was one hundred years before would have meant almost certain death.   The battalion lost 12 officers and 252 other ranks killed or wounded in that offensive.   A dreadful day.

In Search of the Past – A visit to the Somme Part 5 by Penny Gerrard3“ Taken from the field the battalion crossed to reach Mametz Wood looking back at the memorial”

Lieutenant Frederick William Watkins

We had more of Harry’s Somme history to investigate later, but we had one more family member to track down first – Richard’s great uncle and the elder brother of his maternal grandmother.  Frederick William Watkins was a Lieutenant of 36 Jacobs Horse, Indian Army.    He was one of the survivors of the Great War so we were glad not to be searching for a grave or memorial.    He fought at the battle of Cambrai from 20 November to 4 December 1917 and later in 1918 with the Egyptian Expeditionary Force against the Turks in Mesopotamia (modern day Iraq).   He remained in the Indian Army after the war and was later discharged from the army in 1942 on medical grounds.  He died aged  86.

In Search of the Past – A visit to the Somme Part 5 by Penny Gerrard4“The Canal d’Escaut as it is today”

Richard was keen to visit the site of an operation which did not work out as planned in which his great uncle was involved and we soon found ourselves at a bridge across the Canal de L’Escaut at Masnieres.   The canal was still and peaceful and we enjoyed a gentle walk along its banks before returning to the sturdy bridge near the Masnieres War Memorial to find a place to eat the baguettes we had thought to bring with us this time.

In Search of the Past – A visit to the Somme Part 5 by Penny Gerrard5 “No one does baguettes like the French!”

Richard described to us how, on 20 November 2017, Frederick’s first action as second in command of a cavalry squadron was to follow up the tanks and infantry on foot and bridge the Hindenburg Line where a breach was made to allow the Cavalry Divisions to exploit any break through.  The task was completed by 11 am, under spasmodic shell fire, but the leading Cavalry Brigade appeared two hours late and the opportunity for a real breakthrough across the canal was lost.    An information board by the modern bridge shows the embarrassing image of the first of the British 28 ton Flying Fox tanks proving too much for the bridge and sinking on the broken bridge towards the water below.

In Search of the Past – A visit to the Somme Part 5 by Penny Gerrard6“The destruction of the bridge over the Canal d’Escaut” 

From 29 November onwards Frederick was involved in dismounted operations to halt the German counter attack between Gouzeaucourt and Epehy in the area of Vaucellette Farm.

 

 

In Search of the Past – A visit to the Somme Part 4 by Penny Gerrard

Private Gilbert Sexton

The first morning of the Gerrards and Hodsons’ Somme trip had been spent finding graves and memorials to Richard Hodson’s family members.   Now, well-fed and watered after our omelette lunch at a typical French tabac, we were up for our next challenge – this time to find the site at Fromelles where Francis’ uncle, the eighteen year old Private Gilbert Sexton, son of William Henry and Elizabeth Sexton of West Wycombe in Buckinghamshire, of A Company 2/1st  Buckinghamshire Battalion, The Oxfordshire and Buckinghamshire Light Infantry was killed in action at on 19 July.  Gilbert’s 18th birthday was not until at least July 2016 – meaning that he must have enlisted under age as so many other keen young boys did.

In Search of the Past – A visit to the Somme Part 4 by Penny Gerrard1

“What we called ‘Gilbert’s Field’ at Fromelle the scene of the gas cylinder disaster”

Our research had verified the old family story.  We had found that on 18 July 1916, on the day before the battalion was involved in a key battle, an Australian battery fired high explosives shells which dropped short on the gas cylinders which A Company had stored in their trenches.  This error inflicted 78 casualties among those who were in the process of moving them back out of range of the German guns.  Gilbert was amongst those wounded by friendly fire and died the next day.   The Battalion suffered 178 casualties before the attack with a further 322 killed or wounded during the assault on 19 May.   We found it painful to stand at the roadside looking across the peaceful fields imagining the horror of that mistaken attack as so many young men were either killed by the explosion or, worse I suspect, overwhelmed by the clouds of poisonous gas as Gilbert was.

In Search of the Past – A visit to the Somme Part 4 by Penny Gerrard2

 “The Grave of Gilbert Sexton in Merville Town Cemetery”

We were now very keen to find Gilbert’s grave and headed for the town of Merville – several miles away from Fromelles where many of those involved in the friendly fire incident on the 18th were taken for burial.   Unlike most of the War Grave Cemeteries which seem to stand alone in the countryside, secure within their boundary walls, Gilbert’s grave lay within rows of war graves in the middle of the Merville Town Cemetery surrounded by the imposing and ornate tombs of the town’s civilian population.    Again there was a great feeling of sadness as we came to his headstone set among those of his comrades from the Buckinghamshire Battalion with whom he died.  It was somehow comforting to think that his resting place was amid the bustle of a small country town.  Blue aubrietia flourished at the bottom of the stone, almost hiding the words “Gone but not forgotten” which Francis’ grandparents must have chosen.   Gilbert was the fourth of twelve children and his little sister Flo, who was later to have Francis, was only two when he disappeared from her life, leaving her with not even a memory of the big brother she lost.

In Search of the Past – A visit to the Somme Part 4 by Penny Gerrard3

 “The war graves amid those of Merville’s residents”

Our time for exploring was gone for that day because we had an important engagement to fulfil.  We were to attend the Last Post Ceremony which has been part of the life of the people of Ieper (formerly Ypres) for the past 70 or so years. The Menin Gate Memorial to the Missing is one of the largest British and Commonwealth memorials to those whose bodies were never found in the battlefield area of the Ypres Salient in Belgian Flanders. Engraved on its walls are the names of 54,389 officers and men from the UK and some Commonwealth Forces and the nightly ceremony recognises the courage and sacrifice of those who fell in defence of their town.

In Search of the Past – A visit to the Somme Part 4 by Penny Gerrard4

 “The Menin Gate Memorial to the Missing” at Ieper (formerly Ypres)” 

Well before the 8pm start time we joined the packed crowd clustered under the arches of the gate and as the ceremony got under way we were touched by the sound of the bugles playing the Last Post and the fleeting glimpse of the British Legion Standard Bearer taking part.  An unidentified English choir sang of war and loss and the crowd was hushed – perhaps each thinking of particular members of their family who had given their life in that awful war.   We were glad that the two members of Richard’s family whose Somme experiences we would be tracking down the next day had both survived.

 

 

In Search of the Past – A visit to the Somme – Part 3 by Penny Gerrard

Captain Walter Basil Haddon-Smith

The Gerrards and the Hodsons had successfully tracked down the first of Richard’s family members and so onwards on the next stage of our journey – this time to find the Le Touret Monument to 13,400 soldiers whose families had no marked graves to visit.  On this would be carved the name of Walter Basil Haddon-Smith – a first cousin of Richard’s grandfather. Walter was a Captain in The Queen’s Regiment and was killed in action on 16 May 1915 at the battle of Festubert commanding D company.

In Search of the Past – A visit to the Somme - Part 3 by Penny Gerrard1 “The Le Touret Monument to the Missing with its surrounding graves”  

There were no problems with navigation this time and we entered the quiet grounds of the monument which sat huge and timeless in the rolling French countryside which was unrecognisable from the devastated landscape it was 100 years ago when Walter fell. The names were faint and we struggled to photograph them but there it was –  the simple name “Haddon-Smith W.B.” among so many thousands of others. The quiet was only broken by the sound of birds singing.  How many generations of birds would have lived here since those whose song was stilled by the fighting I wondered.

In Search of the Past – A visit to the Somme - Part 3 by Penny Gerrard2 “The name ‘Haddon-Smith W.B.’ engraved on the stone”

Richard explained to us that Walter’s Battalion plan was for A Company to lead the attack with two lead platoons followed by two remaining platoons behind with a 50 yard interval, followed by B, C and D companies in identical fashion.  The distance to the German trenches was 180 yards over uneven ground with ditches and long grass.  The attack was preceded by artillery bombardment of the enemy positions from 2.45 to 3.15 am.  Then, as daylight broke, A Company scaled the ladders and rushed towards the German position.   The enemy opened fire immediately.   After elements of C Company had gone over the top, enemy resistance was unaffected and a second artillery bombardment was requested and lasted 15 minutes.  Then the remainder of C Company and D Company attacked.   By 7.30pm the operation came to an end.   Of the 27 Officers and 963 other ranks, total casualties were 19 Officers and 416 other ranks killed or wounded.   A sad postscript was that his wife Edith had died of peritonitis ten days before Walter was killed.   Richard will never know if Walter was told of his wife’s death before he went into action.   He was posthumously “Mentioned in Despatches” for gallantry.

In Search of the Past – A visit to the Somme - Part 3 by Penny Gerrard3 “The Le Touret Monument with its 13,400 names”

We had started to realise that time was passing by fast and lunchtime was upon us.  What we needed was a crusty baguette bursting with ripe Brie or some such appetising filling (we were remembering the tempting arrays in the boulangeries of Lille).    Not apparently to be found at lunchtime out in the wilds of the French countryside though.  The occasional tabac serving a full meal was our only choice but “Madame” whipped us up light and fluffy omelettes.   The lunchtime passed in sociable chat with other war grave pilgrims as we compared notes and family histories.  We wondered what was in store for us next as we travelled on through the French countryside.

In Search of the Past – A visit to the Somme - Part 3 by Penny Gerrard4“Our lunchtime tabac”

In Search of the Past – A visit to the Somme Part 1 by Penny Gerrard

In Search of the Past – A visit to the Somme by Penny Gerrard Part 2

 

 

In Search of the Past – A visit to the Somme by Penny Gerrard Part 2

2nd Lieutenant Robert Charles Hodson

As I told you in the introduction to my story, we, the Gerrards and the Hodsons, had arrived safely in Lille and had prepared for our long awaited Somme expedition in May 2016.   Finally we were on our way on the first day of our exploration, and were off to find the first of our destinations – the grave of 2nd Lieutenant Robert Charles Hodson of the Royal Engineers 279 Railway Company who was killed in action on 8 May 1917 aged 29.  We knew that Robert was buried at Nine Elms Commonwealth War Grave cemetery at Thelus near Arras. Robert was Richard’s grandfather’s second cousin. He went out to India as an assistant Engineer in the East India Railway but returned to England in November 1915.   The detailed circumstances of his death were unknown.  It was likely though that he was a casualty of the battle of Arras which took place between 9 April and 18 May 1917 and was a diversionary attack in support of the main French offensive at the Chemin Des Dames.

In Search of the Past – A visit to the Somme by Penny Gerrard Part 21 “The simple sign for the Nine Elms Commonwealth War Graves Cemetery”  

Finding it was another matter of course and we were close to despairing until I was commissioned to try to explain what we were looking for in a local fruiterer, then to a motorist unloading his boot and finally at a chiropodist’s clinic.   Finally we were steered in the direction of La Marie – one of the small town halls which feature in every French town and village.   My French was being stretched well beyond its capacity by the time I realised that help was on its way in the shape of Monsieur Jean-Pierre Comblet and his friend who were lifelong experts in the local area and arrived ready to lead us to the Nine Elms Cemetery (easily identifiable by its eight elm trees by the way).

In Search of the Past – A visit to the Somme by Penny Gerrard Part 22 “The well-tended graves of Nine Elms Cemetery with today’s traffic passing by”

Soon we were rattling along a gravel track way out in the back of beyond, realising we would never have found it on our own and were finally inside the little military cemetery which strangely, sat right next to a major road but without any access from it.   Like all  those we saw it was beautifully kept – the rows of headstones white against the clipped green grass while low growing flowers softened each stone – lavender, roses, forget me nots.   The outer walls were sheltered by the elm trees and a book listing all those buried there sat waiting for visitors in a little cubbyhole by the gate.   We felt a sense of peace and tranquillity as we walked along the rows, reading the heart-breaking inscriptions until at last we found Robert’s grave.  On it were the simple details of his name, regiment, the date he died and, at the bottom, above some purple primulas, the words “Romans VI:23 – The Gift of God is Eternal Life”.   I could imagine his twin sister Marjorie, who had already lost her parents, choosing those words to remember her brother.

In Search of the Past – A visit to the Somme by Penny Gerrard Part 23The grave of 2nd Lieutenant Robert Charles Hodson in Nine Elms Cemetery

 

We were so grateful to our “Good Samaritans” for leading us to find this grave and their kindness was not finished.   They insisted on our following them back to the village of Thelus where they presented us with a bullet and a piece of shrapnel (a small round ball) which Jean-Pierre had dug up in his garden over the years.    I also left with a copy of his book on the history of Thelus wishing I could actually do justice to reading it.

The first stage of our journey had been a great success and we looked forward to the next stage, finding the memorial to Richard’s grandfather’s second cousin – Captain Walter Basic Haddon-Smith.

 

In Search of the Past – A visit to the Somme Part 1 by Penny Gerrard is here.

 

 

 

In Search of the Past – A visit to the Somme Part 1 by Penny Gerrard

Frost Magazine is conscious that this year, 2016, marks the centenary of the The Battle of the Somme, which  lasted from July 1st to November 18 1916, with huge loss of life. We are enormously moved and delighted that writer, Penny Gerrard, has written a series of features for us centred around this event, which we will publish over the following weeks.

In Search of the Past – A visit to the Somme Part 1  by Penny Gerrard

In May of 2014 the germ of an idea was born. Two couples met on holiday and hit it off. The two chaps’ conversation turned to military history and an ambition was shared:  to visit the battlefields of the Somme to track down the sites where their family members had fought and, in some cases, died.   
In Search of the Past – A visit to the Somme Part 1 by Penny Gerrard1

“The Hodsons and the Gerrards meet in May 2014”

It was clear that 2016 was going to be an important year – 100 years since this beautiful area of France was torn apart by the First World War.  Boys and men on both sides battled in awful conditions and came home physically and mentally scarred, or failed to return at all, often with not even a grave to mark their passing.

It wasn’t long before research was under way.  My husband, Francis Gerrard, was looking to visit the grave of his uncle, Gilbert Sexton, a private in the Buckinghamshire Battalion of the Oxfordshire and Buckinghamshire Light Infantry and wanted to establish just how he died.   Was he gassed as had been handed down through the family for the past century?

Richard Hodson‘s ancestors were a very different kettle of fish with three of four being career soldiers to be tracked down – their ranks ranging from 2nd Lieutenant, via Lieutenant, to Captain and, most senior of all, Lieutenant Colonel.   Could he find out enough to enable us to visit the key battle locations as well as one grave and one memorial to those whose bodies were never found?

In Search of the Past – A visit to the Somme Part 1 by Penny Gerrard2

 “Rendevouz at The Eurostar Terminal at St Pancras”

May 2016 saw both couples, Richard and Judy (no not them) and Penny and Francis, joining forces at St Pancras Station for what was to be our first trip on Eurostar.   The train glided sedately through the Kent countryside, then dipped down into the tunnel under the channel before getting its second wind and revving up to full speed for the short dash onwards to Lille – our base for the next few days.

In Search of the Past – A visit to the Somme Part 1 by Penny Gerrard3

“Our hotel – The Bellevue in Lille”

Richard – a former serviceman himself – had planned our campaign with military precision and our first task was to requisition a vehicle – no easy matter as four of us tried to extract the most favourable terms for the car hire with three of us speaking English (loudly) while I spoke French (hesitantly).     Setting off wasn’t without its problems either since the driver’s seat proved resistant to the necessary adjustments to accommodate Richard and his six foot something frame.   Things were not helped by the Satnav stubbornly refusing to speak in anything but French despite the aid of a passing and somewhat astonished workman who was pressganged into assisting with both seat and Satnav.   Richard was finally comfortable and I began putting my college simultaneous translation training into practice as I interpreted the Satnav from the back seat.   We were excited to set off on our first day of exploration.