St Andrews Square | Frost Magazine

Amarone restaurant is majestic inside and out. It is situated in Edinburgh’s financial district, St Andrews Square and is a former safe – known as the ‘Vault.’ The high domed ceiling and archways are the two centrepieces and the tall windows fill the place with light – albeit street lights, as we are booked in at 7 pm.

We are greeted by two male hosts near the entrance and pass the bar and open kitchen, on the way to our romantic candlelit booth – situated right at the back of Amarone, on an elevated dining area. The restaurant is completely full, with an eclectic mix of diners from students to sophisticated retirees.

The white walls compliment the dark walnut floor and the drop lighting, ceiling decorations and rows of gallery style photographs, give that contemporary look which Amarone promise on the website. Our Italian waitress offers to take our coats as we get settled in the booth and hands us the wine list and a la carte menu.

Vino e mangiare

The wine list is the best that I have seen in a UK Italian restaurant. Not only do they offer six different versions of Amarone (a rich, Italian dry red wine that is 15-16% alc/vol), their house whites and reds are better than the norm and still reasonably priced.

We ask our waitress what is most popular by the glass and opt for the house white Sauvignon – Altana di Vico Sauvignon Triveneto – and the house red Merlot – Ardesia Merlot IGT Veneto – both £18.95 per bottle and £6.45 per large, 250 ml glass.

Browsing the starters, we see classic favourites like minestrone, crostini, homemade chicken liver pate and beef carpaccio. I like to eat locally sourced food where possible and choose the Capesante con Pancetta – seared Scottish king scallops served with grilled pancetta ham, with a sun dried tomato and chilli dressing. My partner opts for seafood too, to allow space for a carbohydrate-laden maincourse, and picks the Cozze Vapore – mussels with white wine, flat leaf parsley, garlic and olive oil.

I can’t visit an Italian restaurant and not have a pizza or pasta dish, so we decide to share the pizza verdi – fresh spinach, rocket, ricotta cheese and shaved parmesan with garlic and chilli oil – and the Petto d’Anatra all’Amarone – pan seared duck breast, served pink, with an Amarone wine sauce, braised Savoy cabbage, sautéed potatoes, pancetta and confit of figs.

Focaccia

As our waitress walks off with the food and drinks order, another appears with a focaccia. We look at this pizza plate of Italian bread, topped with Parma ham, parmesan shavings and rocket, and wish we had not ordered a pizza for maincourse…

Our second Italian waitress sees the ‘I don’t know how I’m going to eat all of this’ look on our faces and provides some encouragement.

“Compliments of the house,” she says. “Mangia, mangia!”

’Mangia, mangia!’ is my most treasured Italian phrase and the first word that I could truly understand without translation when I visited my father’s family as a child – it means ‘eat.’ I have not heard it for some time now though. My nonna (grandmother) used to repeat this during every meal that we spent together in Florence and you could see the joy in her emerald eyes as we tucked into her four lovingly prepared courses with enthusiasm. I smile at the memory and look at the focaccia. It smells too good to waste, so we each take a slice.

I am not easily impressed when it comes to Italian restaurants in the UK – after being brought up on my father’s and nonna’s cooking – but this bread is exceptional. It’s lighter than traditional focaccia, but the dough is flavoursome and the consistency is just right. I try not to eat half – as I want to enjoy the rest of this meal. My partner, however, cannot restrain himself and ends up eating three quarters of it himself.

Antipasti

The scallops and mussels arrive in large white bowls, with an extra bowl set aside for the empty mussel shells.

There is a handful of spinach and rocket separating my four scallops and each one has a teaspoon of dressing on top. It’s a simple arrangement that works. I have a tendency to overcook scallops – a cooking trait that I get from my mother, who overcooks most food – so it is a real treat to eat scallops that slide down the throat just like oysters. Yum.

My partner is almost finished the mussels by the time I have eaten two scallops – my nonna would be proud of his enthusiasm – but manages to show me a novel way of eating them before they are all gone. He uses an empty shell to pick out the rest of the mussels. It’s a unique idea that’s much easier than using a fork – and one that I must remember.

Pizza e carne

I’ve been looking forward to the maincourse – as I’ve not tried duck in Amarone sauce before. But when our waitress places this plate of carne in front of me, I notice how thin the sauce is. Instead of allowing it to simmer into a heavy reduction, which I like, it looks like the chef has just splashed some Amarone straight from the bottle onto my plate.

I keep an open mind though and tuck in. The sauce does not stick to the meat, like I thought, but the duck is tender and tasty nonetheless – and the sautéed potatoes are addictive.

Happy, contented sounds come from my partner’s side of the booth – making it obvious that he is enjoying the pizza verdi. But he gives up after two slices – this selection of Italian food has defeated him. I taste a slice of pizza and immediately fall in love with the soft ricotta cheese. It’s too good to leave.

“Could you box this up for us,” I ask our waitress. “We’ll have it tomorrow for lunch.”

Dolce

Being used to large portions of carbohydrates, I have left just enough room for il dolce.

There are 7 desserts on offer in Amarone and all are traditionally Italian. The prices are reasonable, with the most expensive being the Formaggi Misti at £6.95 – a selection of Italian cheeses served with oatcakes and honey. The Tortino di Formaggio – mascarpone, honey and ginger cheesecake on a crushed gingernut biscuit base – sounds unusual and delicious. But I opt for the pannacotta – as it’s light.

Pannacotta con Lamponi

Our waitress puts down the plate in front of me – but leaves two spoons, which makes my partner smile. This is a simple dessert, arranged simply on the plate. No fuss or embellishments – just the vanilla pannacotta with 5 large dabs of raspberry compote surrounding it. My partner puts his spoon in first.

“Mmmm,” he says with closed eyes.

I scoop a piece of pannacotta – and do the same.

Not everything in Amarone is as perfect as the focaccia, seafood, pizza, duck breast and pannacotta. The red wine list, however good, is pricy when you opt for something other than the three house reds. The restaurant could do with an Italian host at the door who oozes my nonna’s love of food and wine. And the Amarone sauce that drenched my duck, could have had more substance…

BUT, Amarone is all the more charming for a couple of imperfections. It is the only Italian restaurant that I’ve tried in the UK so far – bar my father’s – that is worthy of my nonna’s cooking. Most Italian restaurants have front of house charm. Fewer have food with charm.

Amarone’s food is made with love and is the perfect place to take your love. Well done to owners, Mario Gizzi and Tony Conetta. As they say in Italy, a dopo (see you later)…

Editors note: We did eat the pizza for lunch the following day – and it was just as good cold.

Our meal for two:

1 x Focaccia di Parma £7.95

1 x Cozze Vapore £6.75

1 x Capesante con Pancetta £7.95

1 x Pizza Verdi £10.25

1x Petto d’Anatra all’Amarone £16.95

1 x Pannacotta con Lamponi £5.25

1 x Altana di Vico Sauvignon Triveneto 250ml glass £6.45

1 x Ardesia Merlot IGT Veneto 250ml glass £6.45

Total: £68.00 + tip (£34.00 per head for two people having starter, maincourse and dessert + one large glass of house wine each)

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