A Weekend In Rome: Fall For The The Eternal City In 48 Hours

by Holly Thomas. All images copyright Holly Thomas [Twitter, Instagram: @HolstaT]

 

Rome might not have been built in a day, but with enough pizza bianca under your belt you can sure fall for it in one. Here are a few unmissables you should squeeze in between slices…

The Walk up the Via dei Fori Imperiali

[Make this your route to the Colloseum, and in ten minutes you’ll see enough of Ancient Rome to make your trip worthwhile]

Start early at the Piazza Venezia. Avoid the overpriced ice cream (tends to be better when found down a side street), and start down the Via dei Fori. On your right you’ll pass the Altar of the Fatherland, which looms massively over the square, a fantastic titan-scale monument honouring the city’s fallen soldiers.

Rome, travel writing, travel, tourism, Colosseum, Italy, explore, wanderlust, city break, tour, history, food

Rome, travel writing, travel, tourism, Colosseum, Italy, explore, wanderlust, city break, tour, history, food

Trot a little further and on your left, you’ll see the Foro di Augusto, the ruins of a forum which once served both as a temple to Mars, and space for legal proceedings. It’s classic Ancient Rome, slick efficiency coupled with due deference to conquest. If it’s dry, you can head down the steps below street level and wander through the remains.

Rome, travel writing, travel, tourism, Colosseum, Italy, explore, wanderlust, city break, tour, history, food

[I never cease to be impressed by the gumption of national heritage sites which allow this – tourist footfall must be eroding the SHIT out of everything, surely?]

A little further up on your right, past the Julius Caesar statue, you’ll see the Roman Forum. It’s architectural excavation on a huge scale – like a valley of ruins overlooked on all sides by 2000-year-old temples, government buildings, and palaces. Get a guide to explain all this to you properly (on which more later).

Rome, travel writing, travel, tourism, Colosseum, Italy, explore, wanderlust, city break, tour, history, food

Next on your right is the beautiful Basilica SS Cosma e Damiano. A very lovely building, but by this point you’ll be having trouble tearing your eyes away from the main event…

The Colosseum

It’s staggering, no hyperbole. This was my favourite thing in the city. See the Colloseum, and you’ll understand why the Romans thought so very much of themselves for 500 years. Even beyond the scale and majesty of the building itself, it encapsulates an idea of Rome (my apologies to Ridley Scott), that no number of churches can match. It’s brutal, imperial, clever, showbusiness, business business, it’s everything you want it to be.

Rome, travel writing, travel, tourism, Colosseum, Italy, explore, wanderlust, city break, tour, history, food

Book a tour

Give yourself up to the socks and sandals legions. Ruins are very lovely to look at, but they take on such greater significance when someone explains what exactly you’re seeing, and this is history. A good guide can tell you how the cunning Romans drained their valley-straddling city, where the centre mile is (all roads lead to…), where the citizens had to apply for planning permission, and how one vestal “virgin” evaded being buried alive when she discovered she was pregnant. Go to the top of the hill where the orange trees grow for a stunning panoramic view of the old city, and don’t be shy to ask your guide to pause while you take the pictures it deserves.

Rome, travel writing, travel, tourism, Colosseum, Italy, explore, wanderlust, city break, tour, history, food

Rome, travel writing, travel, tourism, Colosseum, Italy, explore, wanderlust, city break, tour, history, food

Make sure that your tour includes both the under-stage level of the colosseum and the third tier. It’s a little more expensive, but a worthwhile education. Stand on the lights in the tunnels and imagine yourself one of hundreds of slaves preparing hundreds of desperate, dangerous animals for their moment in the spotlight. Then when you’ve climbed to the top, you can better imagine the view of the gladiators – the most expensive beasts in the Colosseum – making their bloody names on the stage.

Rome, travel writing, travel, tourism, Colosseum, Italy, explore, wanderlust, city break, tour, history, food

Rome, travel writing, travel, tourism, Colosseum, Italy, explore, wanderlust, city break, tour, history, food

Go to lunch at Al Cardello, which is tucked away behind the guide office. It’s small and sweet, with the modest seating open onto the kitchen. Diners speak softly to preserve the peace just a stone’s throw away from the busiest tourist area in the city. It helps that the food (the traditional menu you’ll see everywhere – grilled vegetables, pesce, carne, pasta) is prepared with great care, and quite delicious enough to command your full attention.

Rome, travel writing, travel, tourism, Colosseum, Italy, explore, wanderlust, city break, tour, history, food

After eating, you can nip around the corner to see Michelangelo’s Moses at Basilica di San Pietro in Vincoli.

Take a wander towards the Spanish Steps. If you’re parched for green space, continue beyond the steps and into the park behind. Aim yourself at the Temple of Asceplius for photos opps. Be sure to get back to the top of the steps in time for sunset, though…

The Vatican Museums & Sistine Chapel

Well, obviously, but might as well if you’re in the neighbourhood, right? It’s €16 for the museum and chapel. Give it a good half day – if you were to attempt to look at everything in the Vatican you’d be camping there a month, but a few hours will give you a good sense of the place, and get you comfortably to saturation point on the fresco-and-sculpture front.

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Of course, you’ll also drop into The Basilica of St Paul. If you’d rather do so without buying the full Vatican ticket, you can enter via the Roman square, but get their early (before eight) to avoid the staggering queue. Bear in mind that the Pope likes to swing by without forewarning sometimes, and when he does, the church is closed to the public.

If you have some time to kill…

… and are in the mood for a little educational Schadenfreude, head to the Museo Criminologico. This former prison now houses the most satisfyingly macabre collection you could wish to lose an hour or so gawping at. Observe, the spiked iron collar placed on “chattering” women in the seventeenth century! The skeleton of some poor bastard left to die suspended in a metal cage! The torture seat which had a fire lit underneath! I loved every minute in this place.

Richmond Park | London Gems

Richmond Park is one of my favourite places in London. I have spent a lot of time there. Anyone who thinks that London is just a concrete jungle has to spend some time in this fantastic Royal Park. Beautiful and green, it is a real London Gem in South-West London. It is easy to get to and is vast with lots of wildlife; Squirrels, deer, rabbits, owls…it is the perfect green getaway for stressed-out Londoners and tourists alike.

Richmond Parkbydavidbarrie Richmond ParkRichmond Park, London gems. Richmond ParkRichmond Park richmondparkRichmondparkbyby Thomas Rowlandson

 

Every year millions of Londoners and tourists visit Richmond Park, the largest of the capital’s eight Royal Parks and the biggest enclosed space in London. It is London’s largest Site of Special Scientific Interest, a National Nature Reserve and a Special Area of Conservation. It is home to the beautiful Isabella Plantation, Pembroke Lodge and herds of Red and Fallow deer.

 

Perfect for; walks, picnics, weddings (at Pembroke Lodge), fresh air, get-togethers, wildlife watching, exercise, cycling and getting in touch with nature. children: has two playgrounds. Conveniently has six car parks and a cafe. A must see.
Richmond Park Opening hours: 07:00 – 18:45 Phone number: 0300 061 2200

St Christopher’s Place | London Gems

St Christopher's PlaceLondon is full of hidden gems. You could live in London your entire life and still not see everything it has to offer. So we at Frost thought we would help you out. We are going to be scouring London for all of those wonderful places you just have to go. We would also love it if you gave any recommendations. Email us at frostmagazine@gmail.com or comment below.

Here is the first London Gem: St Christopher’s Place. Just off the hustle and bustle of Oxford Circus is a beautiful, quiet spot full of shops and places to eat. Just look out for the landmark purple clock. It has an eclectic mix of shops, boutiques, restaurants and bars, including Mulberry’s oldest boutique. It also has over 20 restaurants and cafés.

To get to St Christopher’s Place you just take a little alleyway parallel to James Street before you get to Selfridges on Oxford Street. This historical place has all of the buzz of London but with less of the stress. It is across the road from Bond St station on the north side of Oxford Street.

Perfect for: Alfresco dining, buzz without the stress, having less people around, shopping, relaxing and watching the world go by.

1 St Christophers Pl  London W1U 1LT,  020 7224 4080

Cheap and cheerful sun in Gran Canaria

When you want to escape the cold and gloom of a northern European winter, you generally have to think about travelling a long distance to get some heat and sunshine. The Caribbean, Thailand, India all offer warmth and great holiday resorts, but it takes a long flight to get there, and though there are deals to be had, they generally aren’t cheap.

An alternative that will save both travel time and money is to head to the Canaries – a group of Spanish islands that are situated off the north-west coast of Africa in the Atlantic. Known for their fantastic climate, they are sometimes nicknamed the Fortunate Isles and their climate is referred to as ‘eternal spring’. In fact, the climate varies little during the year, and while the winters are warm and mild, the summer temperatures don’t ever get unbearable.

The main islands are Tenerife, Lanzarote and Gran Canaria and they have been dedicated to mass tourism for the last sixty years. Consequently, these places are really ideally set up for holidaymakers looking for beautiful beaches, hotels with great facilities and lots of different things to do. The Canaries make an ideal location to take the family for a ‘fun in the sun’ holiday, but you can also find quieter resorts if you’re after a walking or hiking holiday.

The biggest and most popular resort on Gran Canaria has to be Playa del Ingles, where you’ll find the biggest concentration of tourist attractions like waterparks and hotels such as the IFA Continental which all boast excellent facilities including swimming pools, tennis courts and spas and are designed to make your holiday relaxing but simultaneously full of entertainment possibilities.

Whoever you’re going on holiday with, you’ll find a resort in Gran Canaria that is suitable for your party, and the fact that you can get there so cheaply and easily makes it an ideal place for a sunshine break any time of the year.

 

Londoner's Diary 13 – by Phil Ryan

Yes, it’s coming up to the great invasion now. Londoners are bracing themselves for the Tourists. We had the Royal Wedding rush, but now June is coming and so is the world.

I generally avoid the centre of town over the next months (I stay out on the leafier fringes). But a very good place to take the pulse of tourism is in our London street markets. Camden in the north and Portobello in the west have now gradually been reduced to a very long shuffle that takes hours to complete. It looks like a scene out of that penguin documentary film – but without the cute voiceover. Great for the stallholders, mind, but not so much fun for the visitors. And to add to that disappointment is the now almost generic nature of much of the goods for sale.

They’re not very London. In fact they seem to be mainly Chinese and Indian in manufacture. Seems weird to me. You fly in from Spain and go home with a Japanese rubber watch, some Indian scarves, some Chinese jewellery and when people ask where you’ve been, you say London! That said, we do have some great young fashion designers in many of the markets, like Spitalfields in the east, who do sell extraordinarily brilliant and authentic London designs. So it’s not all bad.

I particularly like the visitors who buy those tall Union Jack hats with bells on. Come to London, city of great fashion and style. What do you choose – a felt hat that makes you look like a twat! Classic. I think they just get confused by all the choice. But at least they can lose their money gradually in the markets. The attractions are now charging crazy prices. The London Eye, Madame Tussaud’s, The Tower of London, London Zoo. They’re all close to £20 entry. Last time I was at the zoo, I took a monkey and a meerkat home. Well, I wanted my money’s worth.

Frankly, I’m amazed the tourists still come. London is now one of the most expensive cities to visit. And our beloved Mayor is now pointing out that the tourists are all using his Boris bikes. Hardly surprising, they’re all strapped for cash. An oyster card would probably finish them off financially. They’d probably root in the bins except the locals have probably got there first.

And if tourists aren’t baffled and broke enough, it’s charity running/walking/crawling season here in London with a vengeance. You can’t go near a park or open space without finding scores of grinning sweaty folk dressed as nuns or in pink, blue or green, covered in balloons and sprinting at you waving plastic buckets. It’s all very laudable but annoying. I give to charity in my own way. But it’s like a load of highwaymen without any style have been let loose. Every underground station now seems to have a bucket waver in residence and my local high street has posted at least three a day along its length.

It’s like some surreal computer game. You devise strategies. Maximum points. Cross over. Lift your paper and become invisible. Glare wildly. Mutter ‘no thanks’. Get someone in front of you to block them from seeing you. Pretend to answer your phone. Avoid eye contact. Look at the floor. I’m exhausted after a day out!

I’m all for charity, but not when it walks up to you and demands money with cheery menaces. I’d like a central fund I could pay a tenner into once a month. Then all the charities have to fight it out with pillows in a giant mud-filled arena which you have to pay to go into to watch. Brilliant eh? Money and entertainment. Maybe it’ll catch on.

But London is getting crowded with visitors and the tubes are getting to be even more of a nightmare. I love the recent saga of breakdowns and then the accompanying explanations. A bolt fell off and jammed a door open. Signals wouldn’t talk to each other. My favourite: an animal of some kind loose in a tunnel. An animal? What? Bigfoot?

However, I witnessed a pure London moment last week. I was at Finchley Road waiting for a Jubilee line train. On the platform behind him I heard a Metropolitan line train approach. The station announcement proudly said: “Ladies and Gentlemen. The train now arriving on platform three is one of the brand new Metropolitan line trains now in service.” So I turned around and a new shiny and gleaming train pulled in. It was really brand new. Bright paint job. Clear glass in its windows. Modern. Inviting. It looked very nice. Inside there was about 50 happy people, all looking very pleased to be on such a nice shiny and clean train for a change. Some of them stood up to get off.

Meanwhile, people on the platform all looked pretty pleased to see such a nice-looking carriage. You could see it was pretty cool. At last. New trains. Comfortable, wide, air conditioned, a pleasure to travel in. But the doors wouldn’t actually open. So it sat there while various TFL folk appeared and poked it for a bit and then it pulled out. Bizarre. Hapless travellers inside banging on the windows and shouting rude words. Resigned travellers on the platform letting their shoulders drop. It had been a cruel trick. The next train arrived. Old, crammed, dirty but with working doors! Reality restored. When I later got out at Bond Street I asked a TFL bloke about it and he said: “Yeah, the doors are so new they’re sticky and they don’t really open. Give it a year or two and they’ll be fine.” Priceless.

So there you have it. We’re being crowded out with tourists. Prices for attractions are at mortgage levels. The tube doors don’t open. And the streets are full of charity muggers. But do we care? No. It’s a London thing.

President Barack Obama Comes Home to Ireland

U.S. President Barack Obama will receive the warmest of Irish welcomes when he visits the Emerald Isle this week. Hundreds of thousands of well wishers will line the streets as the President makes his first visit to Ireland – home to some of his ancestors. Mr. Obama’s heritage has been traced to the village of Monegall in Co, Offaly. There is a great sense of pride in this tiny picturesque village located at the very center of the island, where preparations are in full swing.

Canon Stephen Neill, Local Church of Ireland Vicar, “Since St. Patrick’s Day when the announcement was made that he was actually coming to Moneygall, since then it has literally been a media storm. My phone never stops ringing. But it is a good story, we are happy to share a good news story with the world. This is something very positive and it’s positive for Ireland too. I think it’s very good that the president has indicated his confidence and interest in Ireland by coming to visit us here and I think it is the kind of boost we need.”

President Obama will become one of eight hundred thousand Americans expected to travel to Ireland this year and his visit is being seen as a great opportunity to encourage more U.S. vacationers to make the trip in 2011.

Niall Gibbons, CEO Tourism Ireland, “We have huge connections with America and we look forward to deepening those in years to come and giving a warm Irish welcome to all the Americans that come here. There are 40 million people of Irish decent in America and we think they are going to be thrilled that President Obama is coming here and the genealogical connection is an indelible one and we are delighted that president Obama is coming here to discover his roots with us in Ireland.”

Fiona Fitzsimons, Genealogist, Eneclann, “Well, we traced back nine generations from the president, so we took Megan Smolenyak’s work and we took it back another four generations again, tracing it back to the late 1600s and that’s a real achievement in Irish Genealogy because so many of the records have been destroyed over the previous 300 years. The thing to remember as well, is that the president’s family, they weren’t rich, they weren’t anglo Irish, they were simply a regular family and to be able to trace them back was really quite something.”

President’s Obama direct descendents are looking forward to welcoming home their famous family member.

Henry Healy, distant relative of the president, “We hope he will come and visit the school house behind me where his ancestors were educated. The ancestral home still stands in the village, that’s another important site, also Templeharry church. So there are three important sites within the area for anyone to come and visit, and of course it wouldn’t be a presidential visit to Ireland without a traditional stop off in the local pub for a pint of Guinness.”

During his stay President Obama will also visit the capital city of Dublin where a huge celebration rally is planned.

For more info on visiting the island of Ireland check out – www.discoverireland.com