In her second article about the city, author and Frost contributor Jane Cable dips more than a toe in those famous waters
I can think of very few cities whose names are synonymous with their raison d’etre and Bath certainly tops the list. Since Roman times, and possibly before, that little hot water spring gushing out from the ground a few hundred yards from the river has been responsible for the prosperity and even the very existence of the place.
Bringing the concept right up to date is the Thermae Bath Spa in, most appropriately, Hot Bath Street. From the moment I saw pictures of its stunning architecture and roof top pool the spa was close to the top of my bucket list and as I wanted to experience it to the full I had booked a couple’s massage and visit package some weeks before.
Seeing the queue snaking from the building I was very pleased I had. The website warns that weekends are busy, but later a taxi driver told us that arriving at seven o’clock in the evening for the last two hour session – or first thing in the morning – guarantees a quieter time. Even so the spa was not unpleasantly crowded at any time during our visit.
The massage suite is on the first floor and after changing and putting on our robes and slippers we went upstairs. The treatment rooms are a series of curved pods and the therapists first class. I have rarely known fifty minutes pass more quickly or more blissfully and we floated into the central relaxation area where we were brought herbal tea and plenty of water. Husband was so blissed out he didn’t even pick up one of the array of glossy magazines on offer, just stared dreamily into space.
When we could be bothered to move we went up to the steam rooms on the next floor. The curved pod design continues, and four of them surround a central rain water shower which varies from gentle drizzle to tropical downpour. Each pod has a different scent; lotus flower, ginger, sandalwood or mentholyptus. The last one was incredibly strong and certainly cleared the sinuses but the sandalwood was our favourite.
Then it was up another flight of stairs to the roof top spa pool. Yes, it was busy, but there was plenty of room for everyone and the views over the city and the hills beyond were jaw-droppingly beautiful. We were blessed with sunny weather but even in winter the warm water would keep you cosy. Half the pool is taken up with spa jets and we dabbled here for a while before swimming into calmer waters to relax and people watch, just as the Romans would have done. To our surprise we stayed there for almost an hour but by that stage we were so chilled that time just floated past unnoticed.
We completed our visit with a swim around the indoor thermal pool in the basement and a light meal in the restaurant, which was included in our package. I have to say that we wouldn’t chose to eat there again but on reflection it’s probably best to let spas be spas and restaurants be restaurants. What we will be doing is returning the Thermae Bath Spa for more treatments and to soak and steam ourselves into bliss.
The next morning we got up early to visit the Roman Baths before the coach tours and school trips arrived. It’s a real don’t miss attraction with so much of the original roman architecture on show as well as brilliant background information. You can chose to follow audio guides by Professor Alice Roberts or Bill Bryson, with a separate tour for the kids. But what struck us most of all was how our experience the previous day echoed what has been done in the city for centuries; massage, steam room, thermal baths. Those Romans certainly knew how to live.
